NTCPrezJB
Retiring Member
Lifetime Member
Supporting Member
Camber isn’t adjustable on the stock setup
Camber isn’t adjustable on the stock setup
Camber isn’t adjustable on the stock setup
You don't have your preload cranked way up on those Elkas, do you?
Hey! I am a Queen B.. none of this “Princess” bull hockey.I think PrincessB has found the bent part.
Passenger side A-arm, bent at the ball joint mount.
Good eye!Hey! I am a Queen B.. none of this “Princess” bull hockey.
Unless your up graded A-Arms come with rubber insulated bushings, get used to changing bushings.I figure I have a couple of options.
1. Replace passenger upper A-arm, realign, then see if lower A-arm/mounts still an issue. Pretty sure there's a little wonkiness in possibly both the lower A-arm and it's mount(s) at the frame.
2. Upgrade to arched A-arms, giving me the option to adjust camber. Could install 28" tires at some point as well.
Thoughts?
3…run it and limit pavement to limit tire wearI figure I have a couple of options.
1. Replace passenger upper A-arm, realign, then see if lower A-arm/mounts still an issue. Pretty sure there's a little wonkiness in possibly both the lower A-arm and it's mount(s) at the frame.
2. Upgrade to arched A-arms, giving me the option to adjust camber. Could install 28" tires at some point as well.
Thoughts?
This is what I'd do. If the toe-in is correct and both wheels are cambered 'about' the same, I'd run it. To check camber, just put a level on each tire vertically, measure the inward/outward tilt at the 'gapped' end of the level (top or bottom). Tire bulge is irrelevant as long as both are measured the same way.3…run it and limit pavement to limit tire wear
I mean, you're not giving me much choice here, but I see nothing wrong with this. That's what I would do.I figure I have only one option:
1. Upgrade to arched A-arms, giving me the option to adjust camber. Could install 28" tires at some point as well.
Thoughts?
This is what I'd do. If the toe-in is correct and both wheels are cambered 'about' the same, I'd run it. To check camber, just put a level on each tire vertically, measure the inward/outward tilt at the 'gapped' end of the level (top or bottom). Tire bulge is irrelevant as long as both are measured the same way.
Like this but measure the gap to a bubble level instead of a string.
View attachment 401750
You can probably see the bend in the A arm better than I can in the pictures. I can see the off camber wheel in the pic but I don’t see the bend in the arm. If I did, I would tell you to replace it.What am I missing?
Why would I not, at a minimum, replace the bent upper A-arm?
I'd be getting those SATV arms. Might even be cheaper than oem?2. Upgrade to arched A-arms, giving me the option to adjust camber. Could install 28" tires at some point as well.