P1000 Overheating Hot Topic! - Issues, Problems, Solutions and more problems.

[DDDonkey]

My solution to the heat problem was a bit more extreme than yours... View attachment 235914

I also, found this article informative..

When to Change Coolant? Before It Ruins Your Engine!

Regular maintenance is key to engine performance, efficiency and reliability. Knowing when to change coolant will keep your engine cool for years.

knowhow.napaonline.com

Are you running 35’s on that, and did you do a clutch kit to it?

 

[Admin]

 

[JTW]

Are you running 35’s on that, and did you do a clutch kit to it?

I am and nope... they don’t have to have a clutch kit.

 

[DDDonkey]

I am and nope... they don’t have to have a clutch kit.

Thanks for the info.

 

[JTW]

Thanks for the info.

If you have any desires of going to a sport machine and are considering the KRX... DO IT!!

 

[0860silverado]

Because you’re not fixing the issue of why it’s overheating to begin with. You’re just using a product that is allowing everything to run hotter. That’s not a fix.
Now, I’ll grant you the cooling system on a pioneer is a damn joke. It doesn’t take much mud or elevation to start having an issue. But the problem is why are you doing the switch? What was your issue to prompt the change. If you’re wanting to truly fix the issue of the inadequate cooling system and not just mask the issues that could cause a reduction in that system. A much better solution is a bigger aftermarket radiator with a better fan.

My coolant temp has never even hinted at going over 2 bars on the display. I just want the peace of mind knowing that if I go waterless, I'll never have to think about coolant again. (My P1K is 4 years old and I've never changed the coolant. I'm overdue for replacement!)

 

[oldgasser]

If you have any desires of going to a sport machine and are considering the KRX... DO IT!!

It's a good looking machine but it's still a 2 speed belt drive. Those are the things that led me to the Pioneer. Yamaha now has one with a real multi gear transmission but they only offer it on their high performance model.

 

[oldgasser]

My coolant temp has never even hinted at going over 2 bars on the display. I just want the peace of mind knowing that if I go waterless, I'll never have to think about coolant again. (My P1K is 4 years old and I've never changed the coolant. I'm overdue for replacement!)

Never is a long time, nothing is forever. I still recommend the manual fan switch and the digital temp gauge. That way you have complete control and always know if a problem arises. If you would like I can post some photos of the hose adapter I put together for the temp sensor. I put it in the 12mm bypass hose because it always has coolant flow even when the thermostat is closed.

 

[0860silverado]

Never is a long time, nothing is forever. I still recommend the manual fan switch and the digital temp gauge. That way you have complete control and always know if a problem arises. If you would like I can post some photos of the hose adapter I put together for the temp sensor. I put it in the 12mm bypass hose because it always has coolant flow even when the thermostat is closed.

If it isn't too much trouble, I'd like to see your setup. Thanks!

 

[oldgasser]

If it isn't too much trouble, I'd like to see your setup. Thanks!

Photos attached. The hose adapter is brass 3/8" female pipe tee. The 2 hose adapters are brass 3/8" male pipe x 1/2" hose barb. For the center port I put in a 1/4" Female x 3/8" male reducer bushing and then I had to find an adapter bushing that is 1/4" male pipe x 1/8 x 28 BSPP (British pipe thread). I eventually located one on Amazon and if you follow the link at the bottom it will take you there. I chose to install the sensor in the coolant by pass hose because I wanted water after it exited from the engine which is when it is at it's highest temp and didn't want flow interference from the thermostat. As it turned out the adapter exactly placed the sensor tip in the middle of the water stream. This gauge has it's own battery so doesn't require any wiring but because of that it doesn't have a face light for night use. Don't ask why they chose British Pipe Thread, it could as easily been IPP (which is tapered where British is not). Any further questions feel free to ask.

Amazon.com: VIAIR 90001 1/8" Female BSP - 1/4" Male NPT Adaptor - 2 Piece: Automotive

Old Gasser

 

[oldgasser]

The bypass hose is 12 mm ID so the 1/2" hose barbs are the correct size for it.

 

[lee]

: It has a boiling point of 375 degrees F.

The thing I wonder about is what happens to the engine at 375 F? Do you think honda designes and tests there motors to that temp?

The stock water / coolant will boil hard at much lower temperatures and the boiling will use a lot of the heat energy in the process.

I guess if you never have a laps and fail to catch the temp it will work for you. But I would rather enjoy the ride and let the engine take care of itself (oh, and like @JTW I got something else, p500 even better than a KRX)

 

[JTW]

It's a good looking machine but it's still a 2 speed belt drive. Those are the things that led me to the Pioneer. Yamaha now has one with a real multi gear transmission but they only offer it on their high performance model.

Me too... but omg Kawi nailed it with this machine for the riding our group does!

 

[oldgasser]

The thing I wonder about is what happens to the engine at 375 F? Do you think honda designes and tests there motors to that temp?

The stock water / coolant will boil hard at much lower temperatures and the boiling will use a lot of the heat energy in the process.

I guess if you never have a laps and fail to catch the temp it will work for you. But I would rather enjoy the ride and let the engine take care of itself (oh, and like @JTW I got something else, p500 even better than a KRX)

The whole point of the higher boiling temp is to improve heat transfer at higher temps. Boiling water turns to steam and steam will transfer or absorb zero heat. If you can raise the temp at which it will vaporize you assure having nothing but liquid in the system which means even at higher temps the heat will transfer to the coolant at every location within the engine and the coolant then carries the heat to the radiator which removes some of it before it circulates back to the engine. Any coolant, including this one, is not a cure all. Operators still have to make certain they pay attention and don't let the heat get out of control, hence the digital temp gauge. We used to run air cooled desert race cars with synthetic oil and didn't start worrying about oil temps until they got to about 320 degrees. Gasoline engines generally run more efficiently at higher temps mainly because the fuel vaporizes better. If the temp of this coolant got above 250 I would start looking for the reason. Below that I would not worry about it.

Old Gasser

 

[0860silverado]

Photos attached. The hose adapter is brass 3/8" female pipe tee. The 2 hose adapters are brass 3/8" male pipe x 1/2" hose barb. For the center port I put in a 1/4" Female x 3/8" male reducer bushing and then I had to find an adapter bushing that is 1/4" male pipe x 1/8 x 28 BSPP (British pipe thread). I eventually located one on Amazon and if you follow the link at the bottom it will take you there. I chose to install the sensor in the coolant by pass hose because I wanted water after it exited from the engine which is when it is at it's highest temp and didn't want flow interference from the thermostat. As it turned out the adapter exactly placed the sensor tip in the middle of the water stream. This gauge has it's own battery so doesn't require any wiring but because of that it doesn't have a face light for night use. Don't ask why they chose British Pipe Thread, it could as easily been IPP (which is tapered where British is not). Any further questions feel free to ask.

Amazon.com: VIAIR 90001 1/8" Female BSP - 1/4" Male NPT Adaptor - 2 Piece: Automotive

Old Gasser

View attachment 236040View attachment 236041View attachment 236042View attachment 236043View attachment 236040View attachment 236041View attachment 236042View attachment 236043View attachment 236045View attachment 236046View attachment 236047

Mighty fine work sir! Thanks for sharing!

 

[tdhanses]

Is this still an issue on 2020 and 2021 models?

 

[Diyguy]

I was wondering this myself.

 

[Jacks]

Was out for a big weekend over 6000’ elevation going up steep trail at slow speed. Fan stopped running and fluid boiled over. Ended up replacing both fan fuses even though they both appeared fine. Turned key back on and fan ran normally again for the rest of the the weekend. Even finished steep climb immediately afterwards. Never have had any problems before. 2019 with 2000 miles. Just wondering if anyone is experiencing the same thing.

 

[TripleB]

Was out for a big weekend over 6000’ elevation going up steep trail at slow speed. Fan stopped running and fluid boiled over. Ended up replacing both fan fuses even though they both appeared fine. Turned key back on and fan ran normally again for the rest of the the weekend. Even finished steep climb immediately afterwards. Never have had any problems before. 2019 with 2000 miles. Just wondering if anyone is experiencing the same thing.

There is computer glitch that causes the fan to not run. Sometime in 2019 they came out with a fix by reflashing the computer. My 2018 did it 1 time. From what I have read, when you turn your key, go straight to start and it won't happen. I've done that religiously the last 2 years and it's never happened again. I've yet to get the reflash. My buddy has a 2018 and I told him Multiple times how to start it. I watched him start it 1 day on a ride, he turned the key, paused and then started. I never said a word because I was tired of sounding like his daddy. Went down the trail a few miles and as soon as we turned up big hill, it overheated and puked coolant everywhere lol. I've also read when you turn the key to the on position and let it cycle through whatever it does and then start it up, it will prevent this also but I can't confirm that because I just keep doing what I know works for sure.

 

[Jacks]

There is computer glitch that causes the fan to not run. Sometime in 2019 they came out with a fix by reflashing the computer. My 2018 did it 1 time. From what I have read, when you turn your key, go straight to start and it won't happen. I've done that religiously the last 2 years and it's never happened again. I've yet to get the reflash. My buddy has a 2018 and I told him Multiple times how to start it. I watched him start it 1 day on a ride, he turned the key, paused and then started. I never said a word because I was tired of sounding like his daddy. Went down the trail a few miles and as soon as we turned up big hill, it overheated and puked coolant everywhere lol. I've also read when you turn the key to the on position and let it cycle through whatever it does and then start it up, it will prevent this also but I can't confirm that because I just keep doing what I know works for sure.

Thank you good Sir. I'll keep that in mind. My Harley has trained me to turn key on and let fuel pump cycle first, then start. Not that Pioneer needs that...

 

[trazerr]

Parents just had this happen for the first time on their 1000-5. They had to sit and wait a while for it to cool down. Only then did they both realize they hadn’t heard the fan come on in quite a while. The thing is he had a computer update for it about 6 months ago so not sure the update really fixes it? His is is either a 2018 or 2019. We always wait for the pump to turn off in between starting it so I really hope Honda’s fix still isn’t a quick turn if the key..