P1000 Overheating Hot Topic! - Issues, Problems, Solutions and more problems.

[farmtimpioneer]

Hi there,

I'm new to all of this for forgive any mistakes. I recently purchased a 2016 1000 Pioneer. I have been trying to figure out why it would overhead on occasion and work fine on other rides. This is what I have learned that might work for some of you. Apparently when the ignition is turned to on and the Pioneer is not started for more than 4 seconds it goes into "low power mode". Low power mode deactivates the fan after you start. This deactivation no matter how cold it is outside doesn't pull the air though the radiator and will eventually overheat. I couldn't figure out why it was overheating riding in the snow with tracks on very cold days. I have gotten into the habit of starting it right of the bat instead of waiting for the pump to cycle. Tried it on a handful of rides and it seems to fix the problem. I am told by the dealer that Honda is working on a recall for this.

Thanks,

Hello, I guess that could very well be the problem, I have not had a chance to try it yet mine has been put up for the winter but the two or maybe three times that that has happen to me that is exactly how it has happen You pretty much described it exactly and I have always had a habit of pausing on the ignition because I have driven diesels my whole life, My wife has even made comment to me asking why I hesitate when I get in Her car to drive it,,, Thank You,,,

 

[Admin]

 

[KERN]

Just saw this thread. Does anyone know if Honda has proposed a fix (except for reflashing the ECM).

 

[Bigred48]

Mine overheated several times and in the shop 3 times burping the system and trying to figure it out. Before i had the reflash done i was doing what Honda recommend for a temporary fix when starting the machine turn the key straight to start without any delay and the ecm goes straight to run mode and fan would run everytime. Being use to turning key to prime fuel pump like we all do staring anything it was hard to get use to! might try it, it worked for me for around 6 months. Now i had the ecm reflashed it has not kept fan from kicking on so far. Still dont trust it but its all we got for now i guess. Check with your Honda dealer periodically and see if they have came up with a fix. thats what ill be doing. Good luck!

 

[HondaTech]

Just saw this thread. Does anyone know if Honda has proposed a fix (except for reflashing the ECM).

The reflash is the only thing they offer except for the temporary fix they had before which was to shut the unit off and restart to maybe get the fan to come on.

 

[Electobond]

The reflash is the only thing they offer except for the temporary fix they had before which was to shut the unit off and restart to maybe get the fan to come on.

On the 2016 the flash isn’t an option. I’ve had mine into dealer after dealer with no resolution. Finally got Honda tech to come look and diagnosed basically a $2000 transmission overhaul. Next week he had it back after the overheating happened again and diagnosed something completely different. Then they just gave up! I’ll have to report to the factory once I find a solution

 

[HondaTech]

On the 2016 the flash isn’t an option. I’ve had mine into dealer after dealer with no resolution. Finally got Honda tech to come look and diagnosed basically a $2000 transmission overhaul. Next week he had it back after the overheating happened again and diagnosed something completely different. Then they just gave up! I’ll have to report to the factory once I find a solution

Sounds like he really knows what hes doing.

Dont think there's any correlation between the trans and overheating.

 

[LarryAmboy]

Sounds like he really knows what hes doing.

Dont think there's any correlation between the trans and overheating.

Both connect to the engine?


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[HondaTech]

Both connect to the engine?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I have seen them overfill on oil and run hotter than normal, besides that nothing else in the trans should cause the engine to overheat.

 

[oldgasser]

I haven't read all the responses but solved the problem on my 2017 LE early on. Sent it to the dealer once to replace the fan switch which didn't solve the problem. Installed a single pole on/off switch across the switch wires so I can manually turn the fan on if the fan switch doesn't turn it on. I then installed a Trail Tech temp sensor. This one is digital and uses no power from the Honda. Built in battery is supposed to last 5 years or more. The one problem, I installed it in the bypass hose on the front of the engine. That hose is 12 mm and no adapter fitting was available so I had to make one out of brass fittings. The other problem is that the temp sender is 1/8" male british pipe thread which, unlike international pipe thread is not tapered. An adapter 1/8" MIP x 1/8" FBP took days to locate. Anyhow, I have a digital temp reading all the time and turn the fan on manually when needed and have had no further overheating incidents.

Old Gasser

 

[farmtimpioneer]

I haven't read all the responses but solved the problem on my 2017 LE early on. Sent it to the dealer once to replace the fan switch which didn't solve the problem. Installed a single pole on/off switch across the switch wires so I can manually turn the fan on if the fan switch doesn't turn it on. I then installed a Trail Tech temp sensor. This one is digital and uses no power from the Honda. Built in battery is supposed to last 5 years or more. The one problem, I installed it in the bypass hose on the front of the engine. That hose is 12 mm and no adapter fitting was available so I had to make one out of brass fittings. The other problem is that the temp sender is 1/8" male british pipe thread which, unlike international pipe thread is not tapered. An adapter 1/8" MIP x 1/8" FBP took days to locate. Anyhow, I have a digital temp reading all the time and turn the fan on manually when needed and have had no further overheating incidents.

Old Gasser

I have a Pioneer 17' and the first year I had a problem occasionally the cooling fan just would not come on and it would start to overheat, I put in a bypass switch but then Honda come out with a recall reflash for that problem took it to Them and have not had any issues since so far good all last year had no problems at all,,,,,,

 

[oldgasser]

About 3 months ago I drained and flushed the cooling system and after again flushing with Evans Waterless Prep fluid I refilled the system with Evans Powersports Waterless Engine Coolant. There are 2 advantages to this coolant. 1: It is a permanent coolant which does not require changing every 2 years. 2: It has a boiling point of 375 degrees F. The disadvantage is, of course, that you cannot add water to it or you will have to start over.
So far the highest temp I have seen is 210 degrees F. The coolant level in the overflow tank has not changed in 3 months. The initial cost was under $100. although I also spent nearly $25. on a refractometer to be certain the coolant didn't have any water left in it. When I drained and flushed the system I pulled the skid plate and disconnected the 2 lower hoses from the radiator to the engine so I could be certain of getting all the coolant and flush completely drained.
The thing I like most is that I no longer worry about low speed overheating. Oil temps up to 320 degrees should not cause any harm to the engine and with a boiling point of 375 I don't have to worry about steam holes in the coolant. I'm getting ready to also change to this product in my 2007 Yamaha Grizzly 700.

Old Gasser

 

[JTW]

About 3 months ago I drained and flushed the cooling system and after again flushing with Evans Waterless Prep fluid I refilled the system with Evans Powersports Waterless Engine Coolant. There are 2 advantages to this coolant. 1: It is a permanent coolant which does not require changing every 2 years. 2: It has a boiling point of 375 degrees F. The disadvantage is, of course, that you cannot add water to it or you will have to start over.
So far the highest temp I have seen is 210 degrees F. The coolant level in the overflow tank has not changed in 3 months. The initial cost was under $100. although I also spent nearly $25. on a refractometer to be certain the coolant didn't have any water left in it. When I drained and flushed the system I pulled the skid plate and disconnected the 2 lower hoses from the radiator to the engine so I could be certain of getting all the coolant and flush completely drained.
The thing I like most is that I no longer worry about low speed overheating. Oil temps up to 320 degrees should not cause any harm to the engine and with a boiling point of 375 I don't have to worry about steam holes in the coolant. I'm getting ready to also change to this product in my 2007 Yamaha Grizzly 700.

Old Gasser

That’s really not a good idea... you’re just band aiding the real issue.

 

[oldgasser]

That’s really not a good idea... you’re just band aiding the real issue.

Why is it not a good idea? I have a digital temp gauge with a probe in the coolant bypass hose so I always know the coolant temp. I'm not band aiding anything. I have a manual switch to turn the coolant fan on when I need it. Since I have installed this product I have had zero issues with over heating and don't have to worry if the temp gets slightly above the boiling point of water because this product will not produce steam at those temps the way water and anti freeze will. Therefore the liquid coolant is always in total contact with the engine walls and it doesn't develop hot spots as it can if steam pockets are present. I'll consider your comment if you tell me why. By the way we used to race VW powered desert cars back in the 70s. These were air cooled engines and our only temp gauges were oil and cylinder head temp. Running full synthetic oil we could run a 3 or 4 hour race and see oil temps of slightly above 300 degrees F with no damage to the engine. I think I have enough experience to know what I'm doing and I am so far impressed with the product.

Old Gasser

 

[0860silverado]

I'm curious to know why he thinks it's a bad idea also. You had me ready to switch to waterless coolant, mainly for the benefit of it being permanent. I'm due for a coolant change.

 

[oldgasser]

I guess we'll only know if he responds. 30 or so years ago there were multiple waterless coolant products on the market. They all mostly disappeared because they were too expensive to become widely used. Water cooled ATVs don't require a very large investment to switch. I am not yet willing to part with the $800 it would take to convert my 6.7 Powerstroke and it only requires a coolant change about every 6 years.

 

[JTW]

Because you’re not fixing the issue of why it’s overheating to begin with. You’re just using a product that is allowing everything to run hotter. That’s not a fix.
Now, I’ll grant you the cooling system on a pioneer is a damn joke. It doesn’t take much mud or elevation to start having an issue. But the problem is why are you doing the switch? What was your issue to prompt the change. If you’re wanting to truly fix the issue of the inadequate cooling system and not just mask the issues that could cause a reduction in that system. A much better solution is a bigger aftermarket radiator with a better fan.

 

[oldgasser]

I appreciate your response. It is pretty much what I expected. The reason I switched to the waterless coolant was not to fix an over heating problem. Yes, early on I did have a couple of over heating events. Those events led me to install the manual fan switch and the digital temp gauge. Those pretty much solved my overheating problems because I now have complete control. I installed the waterless coolant for 2 main reasons. 1: I don't have to drain, flush and replace the coolant every 2 years and 2: I virtually eliminate the likelihood of coolant loss from boiling. At my age (82) I no longer intend to push my machine to it's limit but on the other hand I don't want to be stranded in a remote area with no cell service. Also since I am no longer employed I am willing to spend money for essential improvements but I don't intend to invest $1,000 in a new cooling system. As for the product allowing everything to run hotter, Evans states on it's website that average operating temps may be a few degrees hotter. I have yet to experience this. My thermostat opens fully at 171 degrees F and the highest temp i have so far experienced is 209 degrees F. The outside temp was near 100 that day and I was in rough country going slow looking for Gambel quail.
To sum it up, even if I had spent the 1,000 to upgrade the cooling system I would still install the waterless coolant. I am very happy with the product.

Old Gasser

 

[JTW]

I appreciate your response. It is pretty much what I expected. The reason I switched to the waterless coolant was not to fix an over heating problem. Yes, early on I did have a couple of over heating events. Those events led me to install the manual fan switch and the digital temp gauge. Those pretty much solved my overheating problems because I now have complete control. I installed the waterless coolant for 2 main reasons. 1: I don't have to drain, flush and replace the coolant every 2 years and 2: I virtually eliminate the likelihood of coolant loss from boiling. At my age (82) I no longer intend to push my machine to it's limit but on the other hand I don't want to be stranded in a remote area with no cell service. Also since I am no longer employed I am willing to spend money for essential improvements but I don't intend to invest $1,000 in a new cooling system. As for the product allowing everything to run hotter, Evans states on it's website that average operating temps may be a few degrees hotter. I have yet to experience this. My thermostat opens fully at 171 degrees F and the highest temp i have so far experienced is 209 degrees F. The outside temp was near 100 that day and I was in rough country going slow looking for Gambel quail.
To sum it up, even if I had spent the 1,000 to upgrade the cooling system I would still install the waterless coolant. I am very happy with the product.

Old Gasser

Do people really change their coolant though? In a pioneer it’s not overly necessary, if you ride hard it will eventually boil over and you’ll need to replace. Lol.. The manual fan switch is a good idea for anyone.

 

[oldgasser]

Do people really change their coolant though? In a pioneer it’s not overly necessary, if you ride hard it will eventually boil over and you’ll need to replace. Lol.. The manual fan switch is a good idea for anyone.

We're just following Honda's recommended maintenance schedule. I also highly recommend the digital temp gauge as well as a digital volt meter.

 

[JTW]

We're just following Honda's recommended maintenance schedule. I also highly recommend the digital temp gauge as well as a digital volt meter.

My solution to the heat problem was a bit more extreme than yours...

I also, found this article informative..

When to Change Coolant? Before It Ruins Your Engine!

Regular maintenance is key to engine performance, efficiency and reliability. Knowing when to change coolant will keep your engine cool for years.

knowhow.napaonline.com