P1000m5 Skid plates suggestions

ohanacreek

ohanacreek

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@JTW @ohanacreek

I get the fact that it returns to its shape, and that’s definitely a good thing. However, I can’t get it out of my head that the aluminum will take a much, much bigger hit without distorting at all (in comparison) and all the while, it’s adding strength and rigidity to an area that already has too few crossmembers..

It took me a while too BUT it’s not the same plastic most people think of which is HDPE or LDPE those are the plastic you see 99% of the time. UHMW is far stronger than those.

This is going to be another I4wd debate.
 
J

JTW

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@JTW @ohanacreek

I get the fact that it returns to its shape, and that’s definitely a good thing. However, I can’t get it out of my head that the aluminum will take a much, much bigger hit without distorting at all (in comparison) and all the while, it’s adding strength and rigidity to an area that already has too few crossmembers..
Lol... I was the same. Even bought the aluminum first round. I was wrong... if you’re doing for the first time just spend the little bit of extra and go with the 1/2” uhmw
 
Sjc3081

Sjc3081

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I just had a detailed conversation with a skid plate manufacture or both aluminum and UHMV plates. The flexing of UHMV on the wide span of the Pioneer 1000 will allow a hard impact to damage the sub frame components of the machine. The slippery nature of UHMV is great for sliding over rocks, but it doesn’t offer the support or strength of aluminum. Out of respect for the candidness of the information, I will not disclose to whom I spoke.
 
ToddACimer

ToddACimer

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I just had a detailed conversation with a skid plate manufacture or both aluminum and UHMV plates. The flexing of UHMV on the wide span of the Pioneer 1000 will allow a hard impact to damage the sub frame components of the machine. The slippery nature of UHMV is great for sliding over rocks, but it doesn’t offer the support or strength of aluminum. Out of respect for the candidness of the information, I will not disclose to whom I spoke.


I've pretty well mangled every piece of steel from my RD front bumper to my trailer hitch. If you're going to rock crawl with these things, you'll need frame gussets under the oil pan, a sub trans cross member, slider gussets and in my opinion UHMW is the way to go for skids. A spare set of a-arms seems to keep the lower ones straight.
 
DanDan

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I would buy 1/2” trail armor the factory utv... or you could always make your own one piece! But for the time and money.... TA or F-UTV..

View attachment 128090 View attachment 128088 View attachment 128089
Just wondering if you can heat and bend UHMW? What I'm getting at, is since you made your own, could you have made/cut it a lil longer in the front and bent it upward to give you a curved lip for better protection and maybe slide better over obstacles? Based on what others have posted, I'm seriously considering the ultimate package from FUTV.
 
ohanacreek

ohanacreek

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Just wondering if you can heat and bend UHMW? What I'm getting at, is since you made your own, could you have made/cut it a lil longer in the front and bent it upward to give you a curved lip for better protection and maybe slide better over obstacles? Based on what others have posted, I'm seriously considering the ultimate package from FUTV.
Not over 240F and not more than @20degrees depending on thickness
 
Last edited:
J

JTW

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Just wondering if you can heat and bend UHMW? What I'm getting at, is since you made your own, could you have made/cut it a lil longer in the front and bent it upward to give you a curved lip for better protection and maybe slide better over obstacles? Based on what others have posted, I'm seriously considering the ultimate package from FUTV.
That’s exactly what I did.. but you have to work fast. Or use a router and score the back and heat it for easier flex
 
Magleto

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Sorry for what may seem to be a silly question, but I want to get and install new skids and, not being very experienced at that sort of thing, the step that I'm scratching my beard over is safely lifting the front of the machine to an angle that makes it easy. I've scoured YouTube installation videos and seen a dozen photos that show the machine already in the air, but it's always such a tight shot that you can't see how it is suspended and they never talk about that step. So, I'm wondering, "Are they using a gantry? Are they winching it to a ceiling joist? Using a come-along?" Some of the instructions I saw say to lay the machine gently on its side; that's a job that sounds rough for just me and the wife... sounds like I need four people to do that gently.

Those of you that have done this, how did you do it?

Thanks,
 
J

JTW

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Sorry for what may seem to be a silly question, but I want to get and install new skids and, not being very experienced at that sort of thing, the step that I'm scratching my beard over is safely lifting the front of the machine to an angle that makes it easy. I've scoured YouTube installation videos and seen a dozen photos that show the machine already in the air, but it's always such a tight shot that you can't see how it is suspended and they never talk about that step. So, I'm wondering, "Are they using a gantry? Are they winching it to a ceiling joist? Using a come-along?" Some of the instructions I saw say to lay the machine gently on its side; that's a job that sounds rough for just me and the wife... sounds like I need four people to do that gently.

Those of you that have done this, how did you do it?

Thanks,

So I take it you prolly don’t have a tractor or front end loader...if not, just use the front winch and raise it up. If you don’t have a winch.. quit f***ing around and get one! These things are too big and heavy to not have a winch. If you’re putting on real skids then you need to spend another $200 and add a 4500# which. Just put it in neutral and lift her up. I use the steel beams in my shop with a heavy strap wrapped around it and a clevis. But you can use a tree, joist, truss whatever you’ve got that will handle 2000 lbs. Once you get the machine up.. mine sits on the rear bumper at just the right balancing point where the weight isn’t continually on my shop beams. But some foam or something of the sort would be good to settle the rear rops on.

6D544E23 4F39 4172 B840 2F8CC9A87086 2C8AD68C 9EC5 4A88 B2DD 69D668BF13FE BB8EF9D1 4044 4494 9BDD 0D8AA5BAA417
 
Cuoutdoors

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Sorry for what may seem to be a silly question, but I want to get and install new skids and, not being very experienced at that sort of thing, the step that I'm scratching my beard over is safely lifting the front of the machine to an angle that makes it easy. I've scoured YouTube installation videos and seen a dozen photos that show the machine already in the air, but it's always such a tight shot that you can't see how it is suspended and they never talk about that step. So, I'm wondering, "Are they using a gantry? Are they winching it to a ceiling joist? Using a come-along?" Some of the instructions I saw say to lay the machine gently on its side; that's a job that sounds rough for just me and the wife... sounds like I need four people to do that gently.

Those of you that have done this, how did you do it?

Thanks,
I used my truck and pulled it over sideways. I didn't lay it on its side, just went to about 30 degrees. At about 35 degrees is the tipping point.

Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk
 
-Bear-

-Bear-

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Could someone send me the DXF file for the one piece mentioned earlier. I have a 5X10' CNC router, CNC plasma and a 1500 watt laser cutter to make plates with.
 
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