Buggyman
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906UP
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Vikes79
SKOL!
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Yeah it looks better than the one @Coeus isn’t using at the moment…lolI like the orange hood.....it fits
Coeus
Major General
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Vikes79
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Got the used pedal assembly today. Spent some time taking measurements on it.
What’s a bit strange to me is why there’s what appears to be a tps sensor on the pedal, but yet a cable going back to a throttle body? I don’t currently have a look into the ecu , but it makes me wonder what its purpose is and if it’s necessary to maintain a relationship of the little cam and the length of cable pull…
I do think there’s a few simple modifications that can be made to move the pedal back a few inches and maybe even several.
My first thought is to keep it simple and simply change the angle of how the pedal mounts to the chassis..essentially forcing the top over 25 degrees or more so that the pedal shoe rotates back and down from like 3 o’clock to closer to 5 or so. The length of travel should remain and the pedal would like fully contact the floor when depressed fully..instead of hanging up the few inches.
My other thought is to simply take the sweeping angle out by notching/ rewelding the pedal…
JenElio
NTC's NoMo Chupacabra Caliente!!....
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🤔......seems like a lot of work, wouldn't it be easier to just buy smaller shoes? 🤷♂️😂😂😂😂😂
Vikes79
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Vikes79
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Man it wasn’t easy finding the right spot for the gps system…but I think this will work perfectly…
😎🤣
😎🤣
Working on the Ford again ehh? 🙄😉🤣🤣🤣🤣
Vikes79
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Didn’t do much with the buggy today other than align the front end.
Front right tire was centered, but front left was toe out by nearly 2 turns on the tie rod.
I set the tires about 1/8 toe out for now. We’ll see how that’s working.
Drives much better now.
Pro tip…. I learned that using a telescoping rod from my tramgauge set, makes the alignment process crazy fast and pretty easy. My tramgauge has levers that lock. Just put up against the belly of the machine and run the ends out to the rim edge and compare front and back.
A camera monopod etc would work too.
Sorry no pics 🫤
Front right tire was centered, but front left was toe out by nearly 2 turns on the tie rod.
I set the tires about 1/8 toe out for now. We’ll see how that’s working.
Drives much better now.
Pro tip…. I learned that using a telescoping rod from my tramgauge set, makes the alignment process crazy fast and pretty easy. My tramgauge has levers that lock. Just put up against the belly of the machine and run the ends out to the rim edge and compare front and back.
A camera monopod etc would work too.
Sorry no pics 🫤
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Vikes79
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So I took the tape to the rear suspension again…this time measuring from the end of the bolt on the lower shock to the outside farthest lug on the tire..
The left rear, which was damaged, is still 1/4” toed in on that side vs the passenger. 🤬 it’s a bit eyeball action, but it should be closer to 10.5” rather that 10.25”.
The passenger side has always looked straight, now they all look right except the rear driver.
Likely explains why it feels the rear is hunting a bit while cruising on the hard pack gravel with some loose fines…
This time I’ll put the buggy on the lift, cut the gusset out, give it the heat and beat, reinstall, measure, and then make a new gusset…vs trying to mirror the passenger arm like I did previously. I don’t think it shrunk on me that far…just don’t believe I pushed it back far enough.
CID
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My thoughts ... because it's the innerweb ...
Cut the gusset with as narrow a cut as possible, clamp the trailing arm down as tight as possible, heat (difficult since it's clamped down), apply more clamping pressure to open the kerf (chamfer as needed for good weld penetration), drive a wedge into the kerf, many tack welds (but good penetration on each), don't feel bad if you have to weld the wedge into place, it will get TIGHT.
Reason - the maximum shrinkage already took place when you welded the gusset in, there will be less shrinkage just welding the kerf shut.
Cut the gusset with as narrow a cut as possible, clamp the trailing arm down as tight as possible, heat (difficult since it's clamped down), apply more clamping pressure to open the kerf (chamfer as needed for good weld penetration), drive a wedge into the kerf, many tack welds (but good penetration on each), don't feel bad if you have to weld the wedge into place, it will get TIGHT.
Reason - the maximum shrinkage already took place when you welded the gusset in, there will be less shrinkage just welding the kerf shut.
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Vikes79
SKOL!
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This is definitely faster than what I had in mind..my only challenge is that I’m not sure I will be able to use my press to straighten it like I did with out the gusset.My thoughts ... because it's the innerweb ...
Cut the gusset with as narrow a cut as possible, clamp the trailing arm down as tight as possible, heat (difficult since it's clamped down), apply more clamping pressure to open the kerf (chamfer as needed for good weld penetration), drive a wedge into the kerf, many tack welds (but good penetration on each), don't feel bad if you have to weld the wedge into place, it will get TIGHT.
Reason - the maximum shrinkage has already taken place when you welded the gusset in, there will be less shrinkage just welding the kerf shut.
View attachment 429605
I might be able do it upside down on my welding table and pull down to the table……..
Thanks for the idea…much appreciated!
Vikes79
SKOL!
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It’s confirmed, I didn’t get the drivers arm to the right dimension.
It should be 8.25” from the X to the tube and it’s 7 7/8”.
The mistake I made the first time is I only measured one dimension at the far end of the arm and should have set a straight edge on the face of the hub mount to establish the same parallel as the other good arm and take a second measurement to ensure the face was aligned, AND the height was matching.
It should be 8.25” from the X to the tube and it’s 7 7/8”.
The mistake I made the first time is I only measured one dimension at the far end of the arm and should have set a straight edge on the face of the hub mount to establish the same parallel as the other good arm and take a second measurement to ensure the face was aligned, AND the height was matching.
Vikes79
SKOL!
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@CID i took your advice and made the slit in the gusset.My thoughts ... because it's the innerweb ...
Cut the gusset with as narrow a cut as possible, clamp the trailing arm down as tight as possible, heat (difficult since it's clamped down), apply more clamping pressure to open the kerf (chamfer as needed for good weld penetration), drive a wedge into the kerf, many tack welds (but good penetration on each), don't feel bad if you have to weld the wedge into place, it will get TIGHT.
Reason - the maximum shrinkage already took place when you welded the gusset in, there will be less shrinkage just welding the kerf shut.
View attachment 429605
I was able to use my 20ton press and press the arm further after heating up the joint with the torch.
When I test fit it it was a bit long, so I just burned the slit shut from the bottom up 1/2 way on each side without a tack and then finished the weld to the end. Pulled it back to spot on.
Now it’s matching the other side perfectly. Ran outta brake fluid so the test drive will be tomorrow afternoon.
The weld looks like dog poop but it’s solid now again.
Thanks for the tip! It sure was faster than what I planned!
CID
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Can't see it with the wheel on.
Glad the idea worked for you. 👍 Brainstorming - it's why forums are so cool.
Vikes79
SKOL!
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Got the brakes bled, changed the engine oil, and took it for a spin.
Here’s some after front and rear realignment photos. It’s not easy to see in the pictures but it tracks straight as an arrow now.
Buggy absolutely hauls now. No more chasing the steering or it trying to swap ends on the road. Finally feeling comfortable with how it drives and letting Mrs. Vikes79 and my teenage daughters start driving it.
Here’s some after front and rear realignment photos. It’s not easy to see in the pictures but it tracks straight as an arrow now.
Buggy absolutely hauls now. No more chasing the steering or it trying to swap ends on the road. Finally feeling comfortable with how it drives and letting Mrs. Vikes79 and my teenage daughters start driving it.
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Rayger143
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Nice work! Time to get out and enjoy it.
Vikes79
SKOL!
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Not quite done yet on the must dos, but really close!
Gotta move the seat frame yet and do some modifications to the go pedal and maybe the brake pedal.
Vikes79
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Ok I finally got the gas pedal and brake finally correctly adjusted.
I don’t say it often but IMO this is what it should have been designed as from the start…well…at least in this Engineer’s opinion.
This modification should only be done at your own risk ..( yeah I know that whole self responsibility thing is required)
You need the following
Grinder with cutoff wheel (thin as possible)
Welder
10 and 12 mm sockets
5mm Allen head wrench
Flat blade screw driver
Trim tool for plastic push pins
Needle nose pliers
Good lighting
Beer of your choice
Remove the fasteners in yellow. The 10mm is holding the throttle cable to the pedal. IMO remove this first. Gently use a flat blade to lift up the yellow indexing grommet and slide the cable out.
Then lift up the boot on the TPS and squeeze the top of the plug to remove the electrical connection.
Remove the pedal
What you want to do is not change the stroke of the throttle, but change the pedal arc. The hump on the backside of the pedal arm is the stroke limiter…our slit that will be cut must be in between the pedal pad and this hump. Use a vise and make a single cut like this. Cut enough so you can bend it, but not so much you can’t test fit with.
After making the cut, test fit the pedal in the buggy. Tighten a bolt so that it’s representative of the true position. The idea is to notch a v in the pedal arm so that the throttle stop is hitting and the pedal is very close to touching the floor. After each trim close the gap up being careful not to bend the arm out of the plane of the arm.
It should look close to this for the amount to take out.
Once you get it notched weld up the slit you made and reinstall the pedal assembly starting with the 10mm bolt, and the throttle cable grommet.
You may need / want to take some of the slack out of the cable on the throttle, that adjustment is under the hood under a skinny rubber boot. Use a 10 mm wrench to loosen the jam nut and twist the adjuster until there is about 1/8” or so slack in the cable.
I also adjusted the brake pedal to move it more towards the front of the buggy so that it’s closer to the same plane as the go pedal. Use a 12mm wrench to loosen the jam nut in the mirror.
Pull the pin and key on the plunger attachment and rotate the u bracket clockwise until the pedal is as far back as you want it.
You will need to adjust the brake light switch as well when you make changes to the pedal.
reinstall everything as it was before.
On my buggy it lowered the starting position of the go pedal by about 1”.
Now my heel can rest easily as it should and I can switch pedals quickly.
It took me about 1.5 hours using my scissors lift.
Sorry if I typoed ect as I did all of this on my phone.
I don’t say it often but IMO this is what it should have been designed as from the start…well…at least in this Engineer’s opinion.
This modification should only be done at your own risk ..( yeah I know that whole self responsibility thing is required)
You need the following
Grinder with cutoff wheel (thin as possible)
Welder
10 and 12 mm sockets
5mm Allen head wrench
Flat blade screw driver
Trim tool for plastic push pins
Needle nose pliers
Good lighting
Beer of your choice
Remove the fasteners in yellow. The 10mm is holding the throttle cable to the pedal. IMO remove this first. Gently use a flat blade to lift up the yellow indexing grommet and slide the cable out.
Then lift up the boot on the TPS and squeeze the top of the plug to remove the electrical connection.
Remove the pedal
What you want to do is not change the stroke of the throttle, but change the pedal arc. The hump on the backside of the pedal arm is the stroke limiter…our slit that will be cut must be in between the pedal pad and this hump. Use a vise and make a single cut like this. Cut enough so you can bend it, but not so much you can’t test fit with.
After making the cut, test fit the pedal in the buggy. Tighten a bolt so that it’s representative of the true position. The idea is to notch a v in the pedal arm so that the throttle stop is hitting and the pedal is very close to touching the floor. After each trim close the gap up being careful not to bend the arm out of the plane of the arm.
It should look close to this for the amount to take out.
Once you get it notched weld up the slit you made and reinstall the pedal assembly starting with the 10mm bolt, and the throttle cable grommet.
You may need / want to take some of the slack out of the cable on the throttle, that adjustment is under the hood under a skinny rubber boot. Use a 10 mm wrench to loosen the jam nut and twist the adjuster until there is about 1/8” or so slack in the cable.
I also adjusted the brake pedal to move it more towards the front of the buggy so that it’s closer to the same plane as the go pedal. Use a 12mm wrench to loosen the jam nut in the mirror.
Pull the pin and key on the plunger attachment and rotate the u bracket clockwise until the pedal is as far back as you want it.
You will need to adjust the brake light switch as well when you make changes to the pedal.
reinstall everything as it was before.
On my buggy it lowered the starting position of the go pedal by about 1”.
Now my heel can rest easily as it should and I can switch pedals quickly.
It took me about 1.5 hours using my scissors lift.
Sorry if I typoed ect as I did all of this on my phone.
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