P1000 Jackal's P1000-5

[JACKAL]

The Money Shots

 

[Admin]

 

[HondaTim]

Beautiful

 

[JACKAL]

Man I love it!!!! I am so doing this. I was considering the 28" variety but the 30's are just awesome!!!

My only worry now is how does it do in low creeping over boulders

If you think about it those tires are only 10% bigger than OEM diameter, it's the visuals you have to overcome. The P1K has more than 2X the HP of a P700 and twice the gears. Put it in Low range and 4WD lock and it will be just fine. Better yet do manual to stay in 1st for the super technical, the limitation will be the drivers comfort zone.

 

[HondaTim]

Yeah I'm ready to hear back I looked at the weight and they are 42lbs a piece but like jackal says we will see.

 

[joeymt33]

Looks great! I can't wait to do the same. Thanks for posting the pics.

 

[Whiskey1]

Here is the initial accessory list and will add to it here to keep it comprehensive.

Honda Glass Windshield
Honda Hard Mid Panel
Honda Hard Roof
Trail Armor 1/2" UHMW Skid plates and A-arm guards
Second Battery Odyssey 925
2nd Battery connection kit with 140 amp isolator
Cooper Bussman 10 Circuit Power Distribution Module (5) 15 amp circuits + (5) 30 amp w/ 35 amp relay circuits
139 Db Compact Air Horn
KFI Winch Mount
Superwinch Terra 45 with 65" synthetic cable
STV 40" LED light bar - Forward
STV 12" LED light bar - Rearward
STV 4" Pod work lights (4) - two front and rear angled out
MTX 46" Sound Bar
Custom switch panel with 8 STV lighted rockers, 2 Mictuning USB power stations, Voltmeter, RAM mount
Garmin Montana 650T weatherproof GPS in RAM mount
Strong Made 2" Lift Kit
Fire Extinguisher
Hi-Lifter 36" UTV Jack
Strong Made Front Bumper
STI Roctane XD 30x10x14 tires in STI HD3 14x7 wheels 6+1 offset

Jackal - Is that the overhead sound bar you have pictured (toward the front of the cab) or is it overhead mesh storage with a dome light in the center?

 

[JACKAL]

Jackal - Is that the overhead sound bar you have pictured (toward the front of the cab) or is it overhead mesh storage with a dome light in the center?

Its all in one stereo mesh holders for phone ipod etc and a dome light. Made by MTX. called the MUDSYS46 very happy with it.

 

[Fullthrottle]

To u

Tires and wheels arrived, OMG bigger than I expected she's gonna be tight, but it'll work out

STI HD3 Wheels 14x7 with 6+1 offset front and rear.
STI Roctane XD 30 x 10 x 14 front and rear.

View attachment 9168
View attachment 9169

Guess I will find out how good the front axles and differential are [/Q

Tires and wheels arrived, OMG bigger than I expected she's gonna be tight, but it'll work out

STI HD3 Wheels 14x7 with 6+1 offset front and rear.
STI Roctane XD 30 x 10 x 14 front and rear.

View attachment 9168
View attachment 9169

Guess I will find out how good the front axles and differential are

Looks good if you look fast at pics new rims look close to factory but closer look they are very nice. Do you think your tires would work on factory wheels with the lift you got?

 

[JACKAL]

To u


Looks good if you look fast at pics new rims look close to factory but closer look they are very nice. Do you think your tires would work on factory wheels with the lift you got?

They could but I think the 10" wide tire on a 6" wide front rim may look odd, but mechanically yes it should work.

 

[Fullthrottle]

They could but I think the 10" wide tire on a 6" wide front rim may look odd, but mechanically yes it should work.

Oh they are pretty narrow.

 

[JACKAL]

Front tire clearance, only issue is Trail Armor skid plate goes into and turns up 2" inside the wheel well. Rubs starting at 1/2 turn and bad at full lock. Will be trimming the skid plates and will have room no problem with factory plastic or clearance with the lift kit. Rear wheels clear no problem

Tires are all at 14 PSI

Angle side view, from above, and full lock. In that order:
View attachment 9178 View attachment 9177 View attachment 9179

And the back.
View attachment 9180

UPDATE ON 30" TIRE CLEARANCE WITH LIFT.

I got around to trimming the Trail Armor UHMW skid plate that protruded approx. 2" into the front OEM wheel wells and were rubbing at even half turn and that almost cured all rubbing entirely. I still get a slight rubbing at full lock left turn only on the drivers side where the sharp OEM plastic comes to a point. This is because of extra room molded in for the brake pedal, there is about 4" of clearance between the pedal and the plastic so I only need to pull in the plastic about 1 inch for no rubbing. I am confident I can push that in an inch or so and gain full clearance with a good heat gun. this is with tires that are an actual 30.4" in diameter & a 6+1 offset wheel

As it is I could only recommend a 29" tire max on 6+1 or 5+2 offset wheels with the Strong Made lift kit without any modifications to your OEM plastic. I believe if you are going to run a 4+3 offset a 30 tire would clear fine but then you will be 68" wide at front with a 10" wide tire.

Hope this help people in making a good choice of tire / wheel combo selection if they use this lift kit..

 

[Marine660]

UPDATE ON 30" TIRE CLEARANCE WITH LIFT.

I got around to trimming the Trail Armor UHMW skid plate that protruded approx. 2" into the front OEM wheel wells and were rubbing at even half turn and that almost cured all rubbing entirely. I still get a slight running at full lock left turn only on the drivers side where the sharp OEM plastic comes to a point. I am confident I can push that in an inch or so and gain full clearance with a good heat gun. this is with tires that are an actual 30.4" in diameter & a 6+1 offset wheel

As it is I could only recommend a 29" tire max on 6+1 or 5+2 offset wheels with the Strong Made lift kit without any modifications to your OEM plastic. I believe if you are going to run a 4+3 offset a 30 tire would clear fine but then you will be 68" wide at front with a 10" wide tire.

Hope this help people in making a good choice of tire / wheel combo selection if they use this lift kit..

Ummmm, I appreciate the update very much. I guess 28-29" tires are in my future. Given I want the roctanes it would have to be 28's.

Do you think the 28" roctanes will fit with no lift?

 

[Tot]

Ummmm, I appreciate the update very much. I guess 28-29" tires are in my future. Given I want the roctanes it would have to be 28's.

Do you think the 28" roctanes will fit with no lift?

28s should fit no problem. I have seen several P1ks with 28s no lift and had more than enough room to clear them.

 

[Whiskey1]

Its all in one stereo mesh holders for phone ipod etc and a dome light. Made by MTX. called the MUDSYS46 very happy with it.

Thanks!

One more question, can you send a photo from under the hood showing the double battery setup you mention in your garage? I think thats a good idea, especially with several electrical accessories, winch, etc. I'd like to have a look at the layout for reference, if i may.

That's a sweet ride, evolving into a one hellava Honda. I have to say, I really like the big hoops and lift!! Aarrrrr..

 

[JACKAL]

Thanks!

One more question, can you send a photo from under the hood showing the double battery setup you mention in your garage? I think thats a good idea, especially with several electrical accessories, winch, etc. I'd like to have a look at the layout for reference, if i may.

That's a sweet ride, evolving into a one hellava Honda. I have to say, I really like the big hoops and lift!! Aarrrrr..

See posts #42 & #55 in this thread for detailed pictures already posted relative to your request.

 

[JACKAL]

Ummmm, I appreciate the update very much. I guess 28-29" tires are in my future. Given I want the roctanes it would have to be 28's.

Do you think the 28" roctanes will fit with no lift?

Yes especially with 5+2 offset wheels.

 

[Ned]

Jackal, I have noted that you and other experience Honda Pioneer guys here, when wiring lighted switches, power the switch lights with light-on power and the switch itself with key-on power. I understand that switch light is really only needed at night and when the switch is in the ON position switch lights up, but I was thinking about powering my switch lighting with key-on power and having the switches lit up any time my key is turned on. Seems like all the old pro's do it your way. Is it personal preference or am I thinking weird? Maybe an unimportant question, but I'm about to start building my jumpers.

 

[PioneerPete]

Jackal, I have noted that you and other experience Honda Pioneer guys here, when wiring lighted switches, power the switch lights with light-on power and the switch itself with key-on power. I understand that switch light is really only needed at night and when the switch is in the ON position switch lights up, but I was thinking about powering my switch lighting with key-on power and having the switches lit up any time my key is turned on. Seems like all the old pro's do it your way. Is it personal preference or am I thinking weird? Maybe an unimportant question, but I'm about to start building my jumpers.

Good question Ned. I am at the same stage in my wiring and had the same observation. I figured it was so that the switches would illuminate at night for visibility and not illuminate in the day so as not to waster power.
I will probably wire my switch lights for light-on power, and have the switched accessories be straight off the PDM and Aux battery. I tend to want to use some of my accessories at times when I don't want to have the switch on.
I'm guessing this is what I like to call a "PPO" (Personal Preference or Opinion), but would also like to hear Jackals response.

 

[Hondasxs]

I'll know the answer. It's "PPO", lol.
Some users like the colors. Others, like myself, only care for them in the dark so we can see it. The switches can be wired however you like. Key On or Lights On. Top on, bottom on, all on, or even add a light sensor for auto control like many autos.
Trick is just wiring it up correctly with the right switch configuration of lights being independent or dependent.

 

[JACKAL]

Jackal, I have noted that you and other experience Honda Pioneer guys here, when wiring lighted switches, power the switch lights with light-on power and the switch itself with key-on power. I understand that switch light is really only needed at night and when the switch is in the ON position switch lights up, but I was thinking about powering my switch lighting with key-on power and having the switches lit up any time my key is turned on. Seems like all the old pro's do it your way. Is it personal preference or am I thinking weird? Maybe an unimportant question, but I'm about to start building my jumpers.

Since the switches show white during the daytime there is no need to light them unless you just want to and that's fine really a matter of personal preference. I guess long term thinking is led life in switch and lights up consistent with all other dash light items when lights come on. Really no big deal either way you choose to do it.