D
Yes, the tank came in about four days ago.
Quality looks real good.
Only one problem, Got a email the same day, stating do not use that tank, could be a problem in the resin makeup or something.
And they have a new one on the way.
Must have had a bad batch or something.
Quality looks real good.
Only one problem, Got a email the same day, stating do not use that tank, could be a problem in the resin makeup or something.
And they have a new one on the way.
Must have had a bad batch or something.
SLOWPOKE693
Well-Known Member
Supporting Member
D
I finely got around to installing my new Trail Tank. Filled it up and it held 10.7 gals.
The quality looks very good and I like that the filler neck is machined aluminum and not plastic.
The installation is not difficult. The new tank go's in easier than the stock tank.
The only thing not covered in the installation instruction was about the four stock tank rubber bushing under the tank.
They are about 3/4" thick and support the tank off from the frame ect., (I removed them.)
they seemed to be to tall for proper mounting of the Trail Tank. I took 1/8" thick rubber mat and glued it to the bottom of the new tank and installation height was right on.
The one other item to watch for is if you have installed any type of rock sliders.
The mounting screws on mine protruded in to far and made contact with the side of the new tank. could have results in a hole over time rubbing against the tank. I cut them off with a grinding wheel and all is well now.
For those that would like the extra fuel carry capacity, I do recommend the Trail Tank...
www.trailtank.net
The quality looks very good and I like that the filler neck is machined aluminum and not plastic.
The installation is not difficult. The new tank go's in easier than the stock tank.
The only thing not covered in the installation instruction was about the four stock tank rubber bushing under the tank.
They are about 3/4" thick and support the tank off from the frame ect., (I removed them.)
they seemed to be to tall for proper mounting of the Trail Tank. I took 1/8" thick rubber mat and glued it to the bottom of the new tank and installation height was right on.
The one other item to watch for is if you have installed any type of rock sliders.
The mounting screws on mine protruded in to far and made contact with the side of the new tank. could have results in a hole over time rubbing against the tank. I cut them off with a grinding wheel and all is well now.
For those that would like the extra fuel carry capacity, I do recommend the Trail Tank...
HOME | trailtank
www.trailtank.net
J
I would assume Honda made the Talon with a smaller tank because it doesn't use as much fuel as the rubber band machines. But yea, I wouldn't mind having 10 or 12 gallons
The Talon does get a better mileage. My RZR got 15-16 mpg. I get 16-17 in the Talon and the best I got was 22.
sspeederr
Well-Known Member
Lifetime Member
Supporting Member
Hey guys I have been reading all of everyone's responses and feed back I bit the bullet and removed the tube I know everyone was originally posting to drill or burn a hole in tube after removal and inspection there is a 1/16 or 3/32 size hole already in tube with the tube removed now is the time to make larger and reinstall if desired.
Also further noting if any of u all do alot of mud ridding I would highly recommend relocating the vent tube not to the front of machine but to the rear following the sub trans vent up behind airfilter box to cross bar and as mentioned adding a small inline fuel filter i am on the hunt for the check ball style vent caps that allow pressure out but no water in more automotive style but will be further researching and testing this
Also further noting if any of u all do alot of mud ridding I would highly recommend relocating the vent tube not to the front of machine but to the rear following the sub trans vent up behind airfilter box to cross bar and as mentioned adding a small inline fuel filter i am on the hunt for the check ball style vent caps that allow pressure out but no water in more automotive style but will be further researching and testing this
CID
Well-Known Member
Lifetime Member
Supporting Member
If you choose to go to the back with an extended vent, make sure any drippings are NOT on anything HOT; that's why I ran mine to the front. Forward might not be a good idea if you ride a lot of mud or water, I don't.
D
I am well over two thousand miles since I removed the spout a couple of months ago and have only smelled gas twice. Dont think i am going to fool with the vent. It looks to me like it is very well placed/ protected as honda built it.
I like the way you measure. I run out, add spare 2 gallons, then fill tank and spare can to original level for total used. Your process is more (OCD) accurate. Vehicles with large tanks can be tougher to measure. Especially if not on perfectly flat surface. Some bulge out more when hot outside, and may show increased volume. I've run out of gas with almost every vehicle I've had. You don't know what empty is until you've been there. And I've been to a lot of those places.Ran my Talon until it quit today, completely out of gas. It happened at 173 miles on the trip meter. This is with the plastic inner fill tube removed, so 'about' 8.x gallons. I'll know exactly how much the stock tank with plastic filler removed will now hold and answer "How much is '.x' ?" shortly.
When I ran out of gas, I dumped in about 1-1/2 gallons out of the 4 ish I was carrying. But I don't like approximations, so I'll run it out of gas on the trailer and take it up to the station, completely empty, then I'll (we'll) know exactly how much gas the stock tank will hold with the plastic filler tube removed. What I know is that, regardless how much gas is in there, it gonna quit at real close to 173 miles under similar riding conditions.
fwiw: I ride at 7500+ feet so, with fuel injection, I'm running much leaner than most all y'all. I'm also a gentle driver and mechanically sympathetic (but not 'old man' slow), so I'm not beating my equipment and don't spend much time on the 'main jet'. As always, and quite literally in this application, YMMV (your mileage may vary), IMO, yada, yada, yada.
F
For you guys that sprung for 'em, how are these tanks holding up? Any issues, probs, regrets? As I increase my travels, I'm finding that two 3-gal Rotopax cans may not be enough and would like to try this, too.
Thanks,
Mark
Thanks,
Mark
I am loving mine. I think it holds 10.6 gallon. On rides longer than 120 miles I might carry my 3 gallon rotopax, just in case of detours or delays(or someone else runs out). I haven't used it since I got the trail tank. I average 16-17 mpg on most trail rides. Easy to fill versus the stock tank. If you fill all the way to the brim and ride some rough stuff initially, you might get some fuel smell from the vent line to the frame for a little bit. It doesn’t happen often and isn’t a big deal.
F
Getting rid of the in-cab fuel stench will be a nice benefit along with the extra range, thanks. Looks like Weller Racing sells these with only $10 shipping vs either $50 or $150 direct from manufacturer.
ETA: Just got off phone with Weller, as I had shock questions, too. They are out of stock right now, but will fwd the tank order to the manf. for direct drop ship, but with the same $10 Weller shipping cost vs the Traintank shipping charges.
ETA: Just got off phone with Weller, as I had shock questions, too. They are out of stock right now, but will fwd the tank order to the manf. for direct drop ship, but with the same $10 Weller shipping cost vs the Traintank shipping charges.
Last edited:
F
I don't know when Weller placed the order with Trail Tank, nor when TT shipped it, but when I got home from a ride on Thursday, the tank was sitting on my front porch. Of course, I had filled the Talon as soon as I got back into town, so I spent Friday running 150 miles to drain the tank down.
Doing the install now, I just paused for snacks. Access to the stock tank is fairly easy, but it looks like getting it out will require some brute force and ignorance. There are two frame bolts under & behind the passenger seat, they are fairly straightforward to remove. There are also two frame bolts hidden up the front of the tunnel that look like pure misery to reach, but it seems designed to allow enough flex in the frame to ease tank yankin' when pulling the crossbar out of the way. We'll see . . .
Doing the install now, I just paused for snacks. Access to the stock tank is fairly easy, but it looks like getting it out will require some brute force and ignorance. There are two frame bolts under & behind the passenger seat, they are fairly straightforward to remove. There are also two frame bolts hidden up the front of the tunnel that look like pure misery to reach, but it seems designed to allow enough flex in the frame to ease tank yankin' when pulling the crossbar out of the way. We'll see . . .
Enigma
East Tennessee Mudder
Lifetime Member
A new or replacement fuel tank has serious safety issues. If you have never done this before, I would find someone that has. This is not a typical DIY job. Leaky fuel lines near a hot engine can have some serious consequences.
F
Thank you for those meaningful and inspirational words. You have enriched all our lives by stating the obvious.
I found it easier to remove the passenger door than to try and bend & stretch underneath it to reach the two bolts in the back, since the nut is in the cabin and the head is in the engine area. The door is only held on by two bolts covered by 5 push pins, then it slides up & off the lower post.
A couple 1" ratchet straps made spreading the frame easier as well as less abusive, gentle pressure was all it took, and the tank came out without too much pain. A taper punch helped re-align the two bolts next to the driveshaft, they slid just out of alignment when removed.
I found it easier to remove the passenger door than to try and bend & stretch underneath it to reach the two bolts in the back, since the nut is in the cabin and the head is in the engine area. The door is only held on by two bolts covered by 5 push pins, then it slides up & off the lower post.
A couple 1" ratchet straps made spreading the frame easier as well as less abusive, gentle pressure was all it took, and the tank came out without too much pain. A taper punch helped re-align the two bolts next to the driveshaft, they slid just out of alignment when removed.
When my shop did that, bending that bar was the hardest. The new tank went in way easier than the stock tank came out.
L
LarryAmboy
Well-Known Member
It’s for the Talon X and R 2 seat. 4 seat model in development. There is a link to send email and ask if he has plans to do the P1000. That’s what I did over a year ago on the Talon, even sent him photos of the existing setup. He said he was working on it and then he took pre-orders on the tank, which I immediately ordered.
2019-PRESENT HONDA TALON 1000R/X (2 SEAT) | trailtank
10 USG (40 L)USES OEM FUEL PUMP AND CAPCOMES WITH NEW FUEL PUMP MOUNT HARDWAREAVAILABLE IN NATURAL COLOR (FUEL LEVEL VISIBLE)FUEL PUMP NOT INCLUDED
www.trailtank.net
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