I changed my tires and wheels before I had 20 miles on mine, and I've never tipped the machine yet, and I drive like a maniac, but you still need to know the limits. You should NOT do the HM trails on the stock tires unless you want to get lots of practice plugging tires. Twin Hollows is AWESOME by the way. I also added aluminum full width skid plates. It all adds up to: more weight down low= lower C.O.G. and more width=additional stability. Also, removing the rear sway bar helps a little bit- not much- to help keep all four wheels on the ground on rougher terrain. You won't encounter any real tipping hazards on the HM trails- unless you deliberately tackle the higher skill level trails. I would also highly recommend that you look at the p5 suspension thread for suspension options because the suspension will make the biggest improvement to stability and just plain enjoyment of the machine in general. I'm sure any of the guys in the club who've modified the suspension will back me up on that, and I'm sure you've noticed how rough the machine rides already. Just FYI I went with ITP SS312 14 with Rip-Saw RT tires. These wheels and tires are roughly 20-30lbs heavier per wheel than the stockers, and added about 4-6" width- I've never actually measured. The vast majority of my riding is busting trails in the woods in very steep terrain at very low speed- I've even considered adding 'ballast' to my tires (like tractor tires) to increase traction and stability, but I go to WV often enough to make that too much hassle, as most of our running on HM is almost flat-out all the time, and the added weight would degrade performance too much. Hope this is helpful, AND Thank you for your service!!
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