CP’s Talon Rebuild

[Buggyman]

No joke today, 217 miles of Idaho woods. 9 1/2 hours straight of seat time. Snow, trails, high speed dirt road, creek ride, hill climb, tight trails and bushwhacking. Talons got beat on lol. Just got home and left the house at 9am, I’m beat too!
Ran at 70 for a couple good stretches for first time, potholes didn’t seem to upset it too bad, just soaks up everything, the adjustment on front shocks was well worth it. Actually softened up the machine by running springs down 1”, now you always run sport at speed otherwise too soft. So trails normal and haul ass is sport, that works out great. Love this machine. Over 1400 miles so far this year I’ve put on it. View attachment 338691View attachment 338692View attachment 338693View attachment 338694View attachment 338695View attachment 338696View attachment 338697View attachment 338698View attachment 338699View attachment 338700View attachment 338701View attachment 338702View attachment 338703

looks like a great ride

 

[Admin]

 

[J80]

No joke today, 217 miles of Idaho woods. 9 1/2 hours straight of seat time. Snow, trails, high speed dirt road, creek ride, hill climb, tight trails and bushwhacking. Talons got beat on lol. Just got home and left the house at 9am, I’m beat too!
Ran at 70 for a couple good stretches for first time, potholes didn’t seem to upset it too bad, just soaks up everything, the adjustment on front shocks was well worth it. Actually softened up the machine by running springs down 1”, now you always run sport at speed otherwise too soft. So trails normal and haul ass is sport, that works out great. Love this machine. Over 1400 miles so far this year I’ve put on it. View attachment 338691View attachment 338692View attachment 338693View attachment 338694View attachment 338695View attachment 338696View attachment 338697View attachment 338698View attachment 338699View attachment 338700View attachment 338701View attachment 338702View attachment 338703

That looks like an awesome ride CP

 

[Coeus]

No joke today, 217 miles of Idaho woods. 9 1/2 hours straight of seat time. Snow, trails, high speed dirt road, creek ride, hill climb, tight trails and bushwhacking. Talons got beat on lol. Just got home and left the house at 9am, I’m beat too!
Ran at 70 for a couple good stretches for first time, potholes didn’t seem to upset it too bad, just soaks up everything, the adjustment on front shocks was well worth it. Actually softened up the machine by running springs down 1”, now you always run sport at speed otherwise too soft. So trails normal and haul ass is sport, that works out great. Love this machine. Over 1400 miles so far this year I’ve put on it. View attachment 338691View attachment 338692View attachment 338693View attachment 338694View attachment 338695View attachment 338696View attachment 338697View attachment 338698View attachment 338699View attachment 338700View attachment 338701View attachment 338702View attachment 338703

Awesome pictures! Looks like a blast

 

[Tigermark]

No joke today, 217 miles of Idaho woods. 9 1/2 hours straight of seat time. Snow, trails, high speed dirt road, creek ride, hill climb, tight trails and bushwhacking. Talons got beat on lol. Just got home and left the house at 9am, I’m beat too!
Ran at 70 for a couple good stretches for first time, potholes didn’t seem to upset it too bad, just soaks up everything, the adjustment on front shocks was well worth it. Actually softened up the machine by running springs down 1”, now you always run sport at speed otherwise too soft. So trails normal and haul ass is sport, that works out great. Love this machine. Over 1400 miles so far this year I’ve put on it. View attachment 338691View attachment 338692View attachment 338693View attachment 338694View attachment 338695View attachment 338696View attachment 338697View attachment 338698View attachment 338699View attachment 338700View attachment 338701View attachment 338702View attachment 338703

Thanks for the invite

 

[CumminsPusher]

First problem with one of the local Talons. My friend and I were up in the snow a couple weeks back, snow was the crap kind and we were shuttering the tires really bad for miles hitting it then backing up and hitting it again. Afterwards he said he felt vibration in the front end. I immediately thought u joint that’s a problem. He brought it in to the stealership to have it replaced, they said they looked at it and said everything good. Maybe a tire.
at about 100 miles into our 217 mile ride on Sunday after going through some more snow he said vibration was worse but we continued the ride. At 85 miles to get back home it let loose and vibration was horrendous but he decided to continue on. At that point he ran at only 40mph and in 4wd as it lessened the effect. It made it home though. Think I’m going to go aftermarket shaft in mine this winter

 

[CID]

Depending on the cost difference between an aftermarket driveshaft (if available) and stock, tack welding the u-joint caps has been working for others. All they have to do is stop the initial 'wiggle' that sets everything else in motion. Tacking can be done with the shaft in place. PaulF found that the bores in the driveshaft and yolks are too big and allow the u-joint caps to work loose. Note that using an aftermarket DS won't solve the problem if the yolks are overbored - and no one is making aftermarket yolks yet, AFAIK.

For the curious, all you ever wanted to know about the problem, thx to PaulF for his efforts -

Talon Front Driveline Woes

There have been multiple reports of U-Joints on the Talon falling apart. I have now fallen victim to the problem but luckily caught it in the shop before it broke and not out on the trail. Many speculations such as missing clips, bad joints, etc. Instead of replacing the driveline and...

hondasxs.com

 

[906UP]

I already tacked mine for this reason. So far so good

 

[Remington]

I already tacked mine for this reason. So far so good

Me three

 

[Josh97stang]

I just replaced my driveshaft last week with a new one with tack welds. Mine was starting to vibrate with 2500 miles on it. The caps were still on but there was play in them and they were spinning. When I first read the thread last year about the driveline woes I though to myself why would I want to spend all that time to pull the driveshaft just to tack weld them and reinstall. Maybe it wont happen to me. Well I had to anyway with the addition of a $250 driveshaft. So my thoughts now are do it now or do it later for $250+ but either way you will most likely do it.

 

[906UP]

I just replaced my driveshaft last week with a new one with tack welds. Mine was starting to vibrate with 2500 miles on it. The caps were still on but there was play in them and they were spinning. When I first read the thread last year about the driveline woes I though to myself why would I want to spend all that time to pull the driveshaft just to tack weld them and reinstall. Maybe it wont happen to me. Well I had to anyway with the addition of a $250 driveshaft. So my thoughts now are do it now or do it later for $250+ but either way you will most likely do it.

I was able to tack mine without removing it, not easy but doable

 

[CumminsPusher]

After this next trip I will probably tack it up like everyone suggests. Honestly it doesn’t seem right to do but everyone has luck it seems. Been looking at that aftermarket complete driveshaft though. It’s expensive but I am concerning

 

[CID]

Important welding tip for the less experienced - when welding to the 'yolk side' caps, ground to the yolks. When welding the 'driveshaft side' caps, ground to the driveshaft. If you don't move your ground, you'll be forcing welding current through the u-joint rollers, causing arcing and permanently damaging the u-joints. You won't be able to see this but it IS happening.

 

[906UP]

Important welding tip for the less experienced - when welding to the 'yolk side' caps, ground to the yolks. When welding the 'driveshaft side' caps, ground to the driveshaft. If you don't move your ground, you'll be forcing welding current through the u-joint rollers, causing arcing and permanently damaging the u-joints. You won't be able to see this but is IS happening.

Excellent advice! Also, scuff the area...cap/yoke.. to remove the paint so you have clean metal, all it takes is a little "zap" with a mig welder and your good

 

[PaulF]

Note that using an aftermarket DS won't solve the problem if the yolks are overbored - and no one is making aftermarket yolks yet, AFAIK.

Although they have since been removed (probably not willing to pay for sponsorship) I saw a couple posts about a guy offering an upgraded driveshaft with billet yokes and 1210 joints for almost $1,000. Basically overkill for your average user but might be nice for racers.

A stock shaft with tacked joints will suffice for almost everyone, no need to spend that kind of money unless you are breaking yokes (and no one has done that yet).

EDIT: Let me clarify, no body has broken a yoke with a still tight joint.

 

[CumminsPusher]

Important welding tip for the less experienced - when welding to the 'yolk side' caps, ground to the yolks. When welding the 'driveshaft side' caps, ground to the driveshaft. If you don't move your ground, you'll be forcing welding current through the u-joint rollers, causing arcing and permanently damaging the u-joints. You won't be able to see this but is IS happening.

That’s an important tip!

 

[CumminsPusher]

Although they have since been removed (probably not willing to pay for sponsorship) I saw a couple posts about a guy offering an upgraded driveshaft with billet yokes and 1210 joints for almost $1,000. Basically overkill for your average user but might be nice for racers.

A stock shaft with tacked joints will suffice for almost everyone, no need to spend that kind of money unless you are breaking yokes (and no one has done that yet).

EDIT: Let me clarify, no body has broken a yoke with a still tight joint.

Fair enough. I’ll bring that to my friend as well

 

[CumminsPusher]

Had another awesome weekend in the Talon. A little of this and a little of that.
She definitely took on a lot of new damage unfortunately but I’m not planning to drive her too much different then Pioneer. It really does struggle something fierce in the tight stuff but I’m always still trying to find a way through, got enough miles on Pioneer that it wasn’t a challenge anymore but this is and having a lot of fun. She’s not a Jeep trail or dunes princess😉

Bridge is a bit tight.🤣

Sometimes you just decide to let the Pioneer live up to its name and follow, just not too often

The group that decided on this ride

Night ride!

Taking the grandson out riding

Wolverine can outperform in the sticks at times but dirt road is a little tougher lol. Here’s my daughter full send throttle through the floorboard with my wife riding passenger trying all she can to get away.

and my daughter taking the little one around the campground. He loves going out.

 

[CumminsPusher]

Oh and a little video of the Talon doing Pioneer things.

Gotta get out.

youtube.com

 

[CumminsPusher]

June 20, 2022

youtube.com

 

[CumminsPusher]

Saturday I went through the Talon to make everything was solid and tight. It’s developed a light bang when right rear rear hits something hard. I’m still not 100% sure what it is everything is tight and looks good. Possibly narrowed it down to the L&W Fab radius rod, there’s a little movement when you twist them that has a clink sound but it’s not loose or nor is there any real movement. So idk. Everything else feels good.

looks like @SuperATV skids holding up just fine to all the pavement