New Talon Owners - First Things to Know and Check

TerryH

TerryH

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JSportsxs rear radius rod install. Obviously the procedure works with any aftermarket radius rod set.

 
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TerryH

TerryH

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  1. Talon X
One of the easiest and most effective mods is the Jeep sifter boot to stop the heat coming in from the shifter. Also very cheap which I love. Also show insulating the bottom of the cup holders the help with the heat transfer there.

 
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K9Paco

K9Paco

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  1. Talon X LV
JSportsxs rear radius rod install. Obviously the procedure works with any aftermarket radius rod set.


You dropped the tie rod video twice. No radius rod video.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
CID

CID

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On some units, the Talon can be balky shifting into low range, especially when cold; it even happened to me at the trailhead, right off the trailer at 80*, so not all that cold. Hondabob has suggested using oil with a moly additive. Since it took me an hour to find these pics from Bob's 13,000 mile report, I decided to copy and paste 'em here.

DO NOT PUT THIS IN YOUR ENGINE/DCT, SUBTRANS ONLY!!!

Photo thx to hondabob -
1634410459187


1634410544688


Honda keeps updating their labels, this is from 2022. You can type HP4M into your search engine or Amazon, it'll show up.
1732669518228


2024's version -
1732669812919
 
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C

ClmND

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Nov 5, 2021
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  1. Talon X
This tip came from @Lil_Steve #beers

When you get your new Talon home, remove the hood and have a look at the firewall above the passengers' knees. That gaping hole exposes the backside of the dash wiring and everything that's in there, to whatever the right front tire (or leading SxS) wants to throw up. The relatively simple fix for this is a wider firewall cover, it took me maybe 15 minutes to install, not counting the time it took to find the runaway push pins. :oops:


The opening -
View attachment 184001

What it's exposing :eek: -
View attachment 184002

The replacement -
View attachment 184119
Hey all this is a nice looking fix. I just purchased a kit from Kenimoto that replaces the factory dust guard with a full guard to cover whole firewall area. It included the parts to fill the gaps on front of the rear tires as well. The whole kit was $52.99. I will update when I receive the kit as far as ease of installation and quality of parts. I just figured I'd post about it because I've seen the rear wheel well inserts for $80+ and this kit just seemed like a more cost effective solution.
 
Remington

Remington

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CID

CID

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I haven't found any limitations to the i4WD the Talon uses but I'm fairly new at this. Other, more experienced guys riding much tougher terrain, won't have anything to do with the Talon until a front locker is available.

Cobweb wrote up a Torq Locker review. One important point is his suggestion to remove the three screws attaching the clutch to the differential and don't pull the driveshaft off the clutch (red highlight by me).

Torq Locker Review:

Over the holiday I was able to install my Torq Locker in my 2021 R2 and put about 200 miles on it.

First off, this is my second Torq Locker. I previously install one in my old 2014 Cam Am Maverick. Was very happy with it versus the Visco Lock system. So I had a comfort level installing it in my Talon.

What drove me to install it in my Talon was a few bad experiences I had with the i4WD. Obviously the bogging in mud was an issue. The bigger issue for me was climbing a steep loose rock hill in high gear when the i4WD system applied the brakes to the spinning front wheels which brought be to a complete stop on the steepest part of the hill. Pretty scary. I backed down and did it again in low range and still fought the i4WD but made it.

Installation: Pretty simple. One piece of advice, remove the differential by removing the three screws attaching it to the clutch. Do not pull the drive shaft off the clutch. This made it very easy to remove and install. Although I suggest a helper to align the differential to the clutch during the reinstallation. I did not use any i4WD bypass.

Riding in 4WD: It is slightly noticeable driving in a straight line. Both wheels are pulling and you can feel it. Not a big deal. However once you steer off center, only the inside wheel is pulling and the feeling almost goes away. Very good feeling.

Mud: All I can say is you might want to get bigger front fender extenders. This thing will now spin both front wheels with no bogging. Throughs mud everywhere.

Rock Crawling: I didn't get a change to do anything too aggressive, but it just pulled very nicely over anything I tried.

Oh and that steep hill with loose rocks, it climbed it in high gear like it was nothing.

Overall, excellent upgrade and well worth the money.

Just my 2 cents.

That thread is here -
 
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U

Ugly

East Tennessee Mudder
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Hey HondaBob and CID. Thanks for the tip on the HP4RM moly lub addative. Do you know the price per quart? Thanks in advance.
 
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Ugly

East Tennessee Mudder
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Hey all this is a nice looking fix. I just purchased a kit from Kenimoto that replaces the factory dust guard with a full guard to cover whole firewall area. It included the parts to fill the gaps on front of the rear tires as well. The whole kit was $52.99. I will update when I receive the kit as far as ease of installation and quality of parts. I just figured I'd post about it because I've seen the rear wheel well inserts for $80+ and this kit just seemed like a more cost effective solution.
CimND - Did you ever receive your KimiMoto Mud Kit you were talking about in Nov?
 
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CID

CID

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Hey HondaBob and CID. Thanks for the tip on the HP4RM moly lub addative. Do you know the price per quart? Thanks in advance.
$9.60 a quart and you'll need 1.35 IIRC so I bought 3, enough for 2 fills.

I got it at Motosport.com but they're out -

Cheapcycleparts.com says they have it but it's a terrible picture so I can't confirm it's right -
 
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CID

CID

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I covered the transmission shift dogs in the first post of this thread, this animation shows them and how they work.

While this is a motorcycle transmission, the P1K and Talon are very similar. This doesn't show how the dual clutch fits in to all this (which is still voodoo to me). The important take away, for those who aren't familiar with constant mesh transmissions, is how the shift dogs engage the adjacent gears. These shift dogs are what you hear grinding when you shift too fast and impatiently and more so when the oil is cold. It also shows that if the dogs aren't aligned with their adjacent slots, it's impossible to change gears (and why I try to be rolling SLOWLY when I shift into Low if possible).

Chipping the corners off the shift dogs will result in permanent and progressive damage, eventually popping out of gear and requiring $$$$ disassembly. Note that we're shifting the dogs, the gear teeth themselves are always at least partially engaged - this is why we don't have syncros in our type of transmission.

ETA: Because the DCT electronics are controlling the actual transmission gears and work very well; our 'problem' is the shift dogs in the sub transmission, controlling the shifts between High and Low range and Reverse.

 
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Ugly

East Tennessee Mudder
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Very helpful animation. I did not know Honda worked without synchro gears. Thanks
 
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CID

CID

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Weak or intermittent power steering - this problem is showing up more and more. Mine does it occasionally, others much more often. The suspected problem (thanks to PaulF) is looking like the EPS ECU (under the driver's seat on 2 seaters) is too far from the PS motor (under the hood) and the gauge of wiring between them is too small to carry the load needed to run the motor properly.

Details -
 
Doogle

Doogle

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  1. Talon R
Weak or intermittent power steering - this problem is showing up more and more. Mine does it occasionally, others much more often. The suspected problem (thanks to PaulF) is looking like the EPS ECU (under the driver's seat on 2 seaters) is too far from the PS motor (under the hood) and the gauge of wiring between them is too small to carry the load needed to run the motor properly.

Details -
I've not heard about this issue. But if it were wire overload, why would it be a problem later vs when new?
 
CID

CID

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I've not heard about this issue. But if it were wire overload, why would it be a problem later vs when new?
The problem doesn't 'get worse', it takes time for it to come to light on the internet. Mine has been there since the beginning but intermittent enough to ignore. Most guys were probably fighting with their dealers and now more and more guys are bringing it up online. Once a guy sees it mentioned, he brings up his problems.
 
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