P1000 P1K5Dave's 1000-5 Build

Adam490

Adam490

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I'm not Sure if those are the same tire as @Blownzuki . But his filled with mud and became slicks. It became a rough day for the old Talon.
Pretty sure he had KO2's?

DSC 0630

20200925 140135 HDR
 
P1K5Dave

P1K5Dave

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One of the things BFG brags about on these KM3s is their ability to clear mud, so I'm expecting to do well there.

One complaint I've read is that they chuck a lot of stones around on gravel roads. Just a little moving around in my buddy's driveway gave me a preview of that. We'll see if it's a problem for me.
 
P1K5Dave

P1K5Dave

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Man, I think I'm starting to see the negative effects of all this lift, tires and spacers. I don't think the infrastructure of this machine handles it well.

I go through ball joints and tie rod ends like water (partly because I think TTC made a bad choice for upper ball joints.) Now my steering box appears to be worn out. My rear knuckle bushings were trashed.

I'm having all kinds of trouble trying to get the front end tight and straight with my new $1K worth of tires so I don't trash them. I thought I had camber and alignment dialed in perfectly just 1000 miles ago, now everything appears to be $hit.

Having a horrible time with the LF tires camber that (for some unknown reason) went way top-in. May be related to the steering box slop, I don't know. Dropped more coin and ordered a new one.

I think the front 1.5" spacers are going on the chopping block, for starters...
 
P1K5Dave

P1K5Dave

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You've got the oem-style ball joints, which I think are more durable. You could also upgrade them to the SATV HD ball joints, which is what I think I'd do when you're due to replace.

I'm going to contact Moog to see if they have a heavier tie rod end ("upper ball joint") that will fit this hub. Worth a try...
 
Adam490

Adam490

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  1. 1000-5

  2. Talon R LV
Man, I think I'm starting to see the negative effects of all this lift, tires and spacers. I don't think the infrastructure of this machine handles it well.

I go through ball joints and tie rod ends like water (partly because I think TTC made a bad choice for upper ball joints.) Now my steering box appears to be worn out. My rear knuckle bushings were trashed.

I'm having all kinds of trouble trying to get the front end tight and straight with my new $1K worth of tires so I don't trash them. I thought I had camber and alignment dialed in perfectly just 1000 miles ago, now everything appears to be $hit.

Having a horrible time with the LF tires camber that (for some unknown reason) went way top-in. May be related to the steering box slop, I don't know. Dropped more coin and ordered a new one.

I think the front 1.5" spacers are going on the chopping block, for starters...
Make sure to check your frame tab at the front upper arm on that LF.
 
Adam490

Adam490

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  2. Talon R LV
I will, thanks. But do recall that I have the two-bolt uppers from TTC so I don't have as much problem there. I'll be going thru everything in the front end when I replace the steering rack next week.
Ah forgot you had the duals. My RF had weird camber and that's how I found the torn frame tab. Let us know what you find
 
ToddACimer

ToddACimer

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Big Brown Truck came by, looks like I've got my work cut out for me...
View attachment 337756
About 30-45 minutes but you'll need a second set of hands to hold the nuts for the rack. I was pleasantly surprised how easy it was once the bolts were out. I took the little shield off the back of the front diff for extra room. Put a dab of red lock tite on the inner tie rod threads while you're in there
 
P1K5Dave

P1K5Dave

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Did you have to drop your skid plate to get to it?

I'm going through the entire front end while I'm in there, so it'll be a bit longer than that. But good to hear that the steering box isn't all that bad!
 
P1K5Dave

P1K5Dave

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Got the new steering box in. @ToddACimer I have no idea how you did that in 30-45 min, lol.

Those two nuts on the passenger side were quite a pain to get back on. We managed to get them off okay, but trying to hold them to get it back together was a pain. After stuffing myself into the floor well for an hour, and about five magnet‐fishing adventures for the nut and wrench, it finally came together.
 
ToddACimer

ToddACimer

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Got the new steering box in. @ToddACimer I have no idea how you did that in 30-45 min, lol.

Those two nuts on the passenger side were quite a pain to get back on. We managed to get them off okay, but trying to hold them to get it back together was a pain. After stuffing myself into the floor well for an hour, and about five magnet‐fishing adventures for the nut and wrench, it finally came together.
Glad you got it done. I was super impressed how easily mine came out and the new one dropped right in. Half the battle is having the right wrench for the inner tie rods, right @BrophyCreek

Sunex 991432M 32 mm Fully... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00SI7GRHC?tag=sxsweb24-20
 
P1K5Dave

P1K5Dave

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You can actually take the steering box out with the tie rod ends still attached, and remove them on the bench. You can also install your new ones before putting your steering box back in. I got that idea watching @DDDonkey's video. I may have to check out that tool you linked, though, for regular tie rod end changes. So far I've been able to get them with a big adjustable wrench, but that looks like it could make it easier.
 
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Spoonbill

Spoonbill

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Apr 24, 2020
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I'm going to keep a list of maintenance, fixes, and add-ons in this post. I do all the oil changes and such to schedule, so I won't bore you with those details. But I thought it might be interesting to others to see how often I need to change out wear parts like brake pads, for example. I use ACar by Fuelly on my Android phone to keep track of everything I do to all of my vehicles.

I called out the bigger problems with bold face and larger fonts. These are the "bad days." :oops:

  • 7/20, 2500 mi - replaced the battery with a new NAPA AGM. The battery that was in it when I purchased it was about shot.
  • 7/20, 2500 mi - Installed vent line kit, added rear recovery shackle, replace RR seat bottom.
  • 7/20, 2690 mi - pulled out my spark arrestor and cleaned it. Found that there was already one of the bolts broken off in the muffler, so I used anti-seize in the remaining two and put it back together.
  • 8/20, 2700 mi - replaced tail light that was burned out.
  • 8/20, 2800 mi - Installed Bad Dawg front bumper, Badlands 5K winch, dual battery system, switches.
  • 8/20, 2800 mi - Replaced air filter, did not need to be done as it was in good shape.
  • 8/20, 2800 mi - Replaced brake pads all around
  • 8/20, 2800 mi - Added RB3 Offroad wheel spacers
  • 8/20, 2800 mi - Added rubber to door bumpers, installed larger cup holders.
  • 8/20, 2800 mi - Installed 4-pt harnesses for rear seats
  • 8/20, 2894 mi - After having parts on backorder for over a month, replaced the R-1-3-5 Clutch Pack
  • 8/20, 2899 mi - Had front wheel bearing squeal. Purchased a bearing greaser and fixed that immediately. I now grease bearings on every brake job.
  • 8/20, 2900 mi - Replaced LF MSA wheel. Crack on inner wheel caused slow leak.
  • 8/20, 3100 mi - Added 15" front led light bar to top of Bad Dawg bull bar
  • 9/20, 4091 mi - 2+ months of backorder, finally got the parts in to do the reverse gear replacement (Talon gears) and low range gear replacement. I had driven the machine 1600 miles with no reverse. :D I wrote a thread on this job here.
  • 9/20, 4100 mi - replaced LR tail light. Both tail lights now new.
  • 9/20, 4100 mi - Added flip-down windshield
  • 9/20, 4100 mi - Added Mudbuster XL fender flares
  • 9/20, 4200 mi - Random shutdowns - Replaced both injector plug / wires. One of them was failing with increasing frequency.
  • 10/20, 4400 mi - Replaced LF brake line, broken and leaking
  • 11/20, 4855 mi - Trail damage (made it home) Replaced RF axle with an OEM axle, replaced diff seal at this time. (A few posts on this topic)
  • 11/20, 4925 mi - Trail breakdown (left overnight, fixed on trail next day) - Sheared RF upper ball joint. Replaced ball joint, replaced RF brake hose (damaged in failure,) replaced RF axle with a Rhino 2.0 because boot was torn on stock axle, ordered boot to repair stock axle as backup.
  • 11/20, 4925 mi - Replaced right tie rod kit. Inner joint was sloppy. Also replaced the plastic "bearing" inside the steering box joint.
  • 11/20, 5147 mi - Replaced all brake pads, lubed all wheel bearings.
  • 3/21, 5200 mi - Steering column knuckle replaced by dealer under recall
  • 4/21, 5549 mi - Front Right damage due to clipping log at 30 mph (left on trail overnight, towed out next day.) Weld repair torn upper tab, replace RF Highlifter arms (upper and lower) and Highlifter bushing kit. New OEM ball joints (upper and lower.) New tie rod kit and outer tie rod end, new brake line, swapped stock axle back in (Rhino 2.0 axle separated at outer CV, replaced by SATV under warranty - new Rhino 2.0 on hand as backup / awaiting purchase of second one to replace stockers.)
  • 4/21, 5803 mi - Replaced air filter. Second time I replaced this thing too early, it looked really good.
  • 5/21, 5943 mi - Changed out front and rear diff lube, went to full synthetic 75w-140
  • 5/21, 6100 mi - Added passenger grab handles to Right upper roll bar, removed rear sway bar, made the firewall "heat door" quick-detach, did the first storage mod to the RR bed panel.
  • 5/21, 6100 mi - Added RAD Customs rear seat bracket mod.
  • 5/21, 6400 mi - Added Tusk 3/8" UHMW full skid plate
  • 5/21, 6500 mi - Modified bed latches with 1/4" tubing to eliminate squeaks and rattles
  • 6/21, 6797 mi - Replaced all four rubber bumpers where bed sits on frame
  • 6/21, 7071 mi - Upgraded suspension to TTC 3" lift, 814 shocks
  • 6/21, 7071 mi - All new brake pads and rotors all around, lubed wheel bearings
  • 7/21, 7450 mi - Replaced 814 shocks with Fox QS3's
  • 7/21, 7600 mi - Busted the hell out of the left rearview mirror (Xprite, LED.) Right one was already cracked, so I ordered a new set.
  • 9/21 8400 mi - Broke LF axle. Replaced with Rhino 2.0. Replaced an upper ball joint (already) in my new suspension.
  • 9/21 8584 mi - Installed new single rate springs on rear Fox QS-3's (I wrote a how-to thread on this,) had a tire repair for a nail in the tread, and replaced rear brake pads.
  • 9/21 8700 mi - Broken Radiator Fan. Replaced with Spal aftermarket fan. See Fan Fail thread. Did a full coolant replace since I was in there.
  • 9/21 8700 mi - Cracks in TTC front upper a-arms. To be replaced with new. Pics in Lift Thread.
  • 10/21 8895 mi - replaced front right upper ball joint, front brakes, and greased front wheel bearings. Upgraded front shock springs to 250 lb single rate.
  • 11/21 9900 mi -added Vision-X light cannons
  • 12/21 9996 mi - put her in storage for the Winter, 4 miles shy of 10k
to be continued...
Wow, Dave. What an excellent Chronology. Any regrets on the Shock selection? i,m still torn between Bandits, Fox QS3’s, or Ekla Stage 3’s
 
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