Toy Hauler P1K5 w/ half ton

BeerMonkey

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Wow! That sucks, never had that with my bumper pull Raptor. But the axles were set much farther back on the trailer than what you see on regular RV’s.
it was about the most i could have done to MAKE it sway. so i know it cant get any worse. something about 1500lbs in the last 2' of trailer would make anything sway lol
 
lee

lee

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Interesting, the OP asked about TOY HAULERS that could be towed with a 1/2 ton truck.
There where only a handful of trailer comments.

But we have a plethora of 3/4 ton truck comments.
I don't have any issue with 3/4 ton trucks, I have one myself (the good kind that comes with a Duramax engine :D).
But the fact is a person could save a lot of money with a 1/2 ton especially if that is what they already have.

Now I know the real experts will prove I'm an idiot using there superior intellect (and a huge pile of bull s***).
But a 1/2 ton truck is more capable than many give it credit for.
As always, refer to the manufacturers tow rating for your truck - this can vary considerably based on configuration.
And for the non expert, the truck manufacturer uses a standardized test to set the tow rating.
It's not some number they pull out of there are as some would have you believe.

TFL Truck recently did a tow off with the latest offerings from Detroit (and Milan).


And remember, men buy trucks to compensate for perceived inadequacys.
 
Montecresto

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Interesting, the OP asked about TOY HAULERS that could be towed with a 1/2 ton truck.
There where only a handful of trailer comments.

But we have a plethora of 3/4 ton truck comments.
I don't have any issue with 3/4 ton trucks, I have one myself (the good kind that comes with a Duramax engine :D).
But the fact is a person could save a lot of money with a 1/2 ton especially if that is what they already have.

Now I know the real experts will prove I'm an idiot using there superior intellect (and a huge pile of bull s***).
But a 1/2 ton truck is more capable than many give it credit for.
As always, refer to the manufacturers tow rating for your truck - this can vary considerably based on configuration.
And for the non expert, the truck manufacturer uses a standardized test to set the tow rating.

TFL Truck recently did a tow off with the latest offerings from Detroit (and Milan).


And remember, men buy trucks to compensate for perceived inadequacys.
I think all the commentary about 3/4 ton trucks is meant to inform the op of the hardships of pulling 9-10K with a half ton. With the op asking what toy hauler, with a segregated garage big enough to haul a Pioneer 1000 in it would be suited to a 1/2 ton it seems perfectly reasonable to point out the difficulty in finding that. I was pulling a 27’ toy hauler with a separate garage and a P5 in it weighing 9 K loaded and it pushed my 1/2 ton around and really made me nervous on the road.
 
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J

JTW

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I think all the commentary about 3/4 ton trucks is meant to inform the op of the hardships of pulling 9-10K with a half ton. With the op asking what toy hauler, with a segregated garage big enough to haul a Pioneer 1000 in it would be suited to a 1/2 ton it seems perfectly reasonable to point out the difficulty in finding that. I was pulling a 27’ toy hauler with a separate garage and a P5 in it weighing 9 K loaded and it pushed my 1/2 ton around and really made me nervous on the road.
But you’re a p*ssy and not the fine figure of a man @lee is!!
 
ohanacreek

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Hey guys I'm sure some of you have done some mad research so I figured I would save some time and ask the audience. What toy haulers fit the P1K5 and are also reasonable towable behind a half ton pickup. I really prefer one with a separate garage but I know that adds length and weight so the kitchen/ garage combo is ok too. Thanks guys!

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

Heres a SUPER SLICK ATC ½ Ton towable on Facebook for 40k
SIDE X SIDE NATION
 
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jwfirebird

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I have a 23pack15 that fits my 4door turbo rzr. the first time i pulled it loaded with the rzr pulled in i couldnt go over 63ish mph without the camper swaying so bad it almost changed lanes. it was not an enjoyable trip. this was with a 05 f250 with air bags, wdh, and single sway bar. i havent backed in yet and tried it (obviously it will be much better) because it will be tight with the bed situation over head. Ive since added an additional sway bar and im going to try filling the 100gal water tank full and try backing the rzr in.
would certainly get the weight as far forward as possible, are the bars 12k rated? could go a couple links tighter and trucks shocks are normally the biggest problem. they only last 50 to 75k before its not controlling anything. would go aftermarket shocks before you bother with sway bars. I like the kyb gas adjust or mono max they really tighten up the trailer loads
 
jwfirebird

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That’s wood framed I believe. If that doesn’t bother you, the price is sure right!!! It’s probably a baiter and will be ‘already sold’ when you get there but they’ll have something else to show you for sure lol.
there are those types, the local puma dealer is one of those shady places, no prices on the internet or when you get there, hate that. didn't end up buying anything there because of that they must be hiding something. the place I bought from has all there prices online and I got a real trusting vibe from everyone in there, its a rv park and the owner came and talked to me while I was sitting there. the trailer I bought before was kinda the same trusting open but was 300 miles away in Maryland, but it was a good deal
 
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Montecresto

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the place I bought from has all there prices online and I got a real trusting vibe from everyone in there,
That’s really cool, makes the experience much better. :cool:
 
Montecresto

Montecresto

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would certainly get the weight as far forward as possible, are the bars 12k rated? could go a couple links tighter and trucks shocks are normally the biggest problem. they only last 50 to 75k before its not controlling anything. would go aftermarket shocks before you bother with sway bars. I like the kyb gas adjust or mono max they really tighten up the trailer loads
Is that the same for the Rodeos Chevy puts on the Z71??
 
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jwfirebird

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Interesting, the OP asked about TOY HAULERS that could be towed with a 1/2 ton truck.
There where only a handful of trailer comments.

But we have a plethora of 3/4 ton truck comments.
I don't have any issue with 3/4 ton trucks, I have one myself (the good kind that comes with a Duramax engine :D).
But the fact is a person could save a lot of money with a 1/2 ton especially if that is what they already have.

Now I know the real experts will prove I'm an idiot using there superior intellect (and a huge pile of bull s***).
But a 1/2 ton truck is more capable than many give it credit for.
As always, refer to the manufacturers tow rating for your truck - this can vary considerably based on configuration.
And for the non expert, the truck manufacturer uses a standardized test to set the tow rating.
It's not some number they pull out of there are as some would have you believe.

And remember, men buy trucks to compensate for perceived inadequacys.
the rating may come from there but its not very relevant and kind of misleading. the most important thing is stopping and turning the trailer when you need to which is brakes, weight and suspension. nothing that changes with power and gears like the ratings would have you believe. really tough to go by something like that.
 
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jwfirebird

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Is that the same for the Rodeos Chevy puts on the Z71??

they are the worst, they are terribly bouncy and none of the chevies(the other ones have softer ones) last that long but no body ever cares about replacing shocks till they ruin tires which is twice as long as they have been worn out
 
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Montecresto

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the rating may come from there but its not very relevant and kind of misleading. the most important thing is stopping and turning the trailer when you need to which is brakes, weight and suspension. nothing that changes with power and gears like the ratings would have you believe. really tough to go by something like that.
Trailer brakes, both axles, are indispensable.
 
BeerMonkey

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would certainly get the weight as far forward as possible, are the bars 12k rated? could go a couple links tighter and trucks shocks are normally the biggest problem. they only last 50 to 75k before its not controlling anything. would go aftermarket shocks before you bother with sway bars. I like the kyb gas adjust or mono max they really tighten up the trailer loads
Running Fox external bypass shocks all the way around. the sway bar/wdh that the all knowing camping world hooked me up with when we purchased the trailer wasnt up to snuff. the weight distribution is fine the truck doesnt hardly squat before i pump up the air bags or hook up the chains. However running a single friction style sway bar come to find out is only rated for a trailer half the length and half the weight of mine. So i added another for piece of mind. Basically i through the worst case scenario at my truck on the first trip and proved i could make it okay. now its just getting everything situated to make it better... ie full water tank, backing machine in, additional sway bar, 14 ply tires, etc.

For anyone even considering towing with a half ton. I would recommend spending some of those savings over a 3/4 ton on a Hensley hitch or similar. its pricey but will help put a band-aid on the lack of weight youll have on the truck side. if you are already starting off with a mechanical disadvantage using that hitch will make up for a lot when it comes to driving down the interstate.
 
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jwfirebird

jwfirebird

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when the bars are setup right the FRONT should visibly go down quite a bit. also a ton of truck don't even have sway bars and those handle trailers just fine, something wrong with your settings or wore out, maybe the shocks aren't set right never had those. even stock 3/4 should have no trouble hauling 12k if everything is like new
 
C

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when the bars are setup right the FRONT should visibly go down quite a bit.

If you are talking about the Trucks front end , I disagree. Before you even hook anything up to the truck , you need to measure the height of the inner fender. After its all said and done (hitch is properly setup) this dimension should be the same or a little less. If your front "visibly goes down quite a bit" there is not enough weight on the hitch. You need to distribute the weight evenly across the entire length of the truck and trailer, while keeping the trailer as level as possible. If anything, you want the tongue weight to be heavy rather than light !
 
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BeerMonkey

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OP, one thing you need to remember when looking at tow ratings pulling campers especially toyhaulers isnt quite the same as just towing heavy weight. i hook regularly to 11-12k boat and travel all over the place with no special hitch, same with equipment trailers. Now in a toy hauler youre towing a 32' long bill board that is jacked up in the air riding on balloon soft tires from the factory with 1500ish lbs on the very back end, catching any cross wind or air pressure difference ( tractor trailer passing) while going down the road. you will have sway unless you change the type of hinge point you have, I.e. goose neck or hensley style. you can help reduce the sway by load distribution, longer tow vehicle, stiffer sidewalls on trailer, and drw will also help to some extent but obviously not going to have that in a half ton.

when the bars are setup right the FRONT should visibly go down quite a bit. also a ton of truck don't even have sway bars and those handle trailers just fine, something wrong with your settings or wore out, maybe the shocks aren't set right never had those. even stock 3/4 should have no trouble hauling 12k if everything is like new
sure the ride should level out and negate the sag at the hitch when you hook up the chains. what i am saying is there is more to trailer sway than what a wdh can help with.
 
jwfirebird

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shocks do most of the sway that you need, if they are set for off roading or comfortable ride, opposite of what you want for trailers wont have any resistance to loads .


when my bars are right for ride stability the back goes down an inch or so the front goes down 4-5, rides good there all the trips ive done forever, and directions and setup
 
jwfirebird

jwfirebird

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If you are talking about the Trucks front end , I disagree. Before you even hook anything up to the truck , you need to measure the height of the inner fender. After its all said and done (hitch is properly setup) this dimension should be the same or a little less. If your front "visibly goes down quite a bit" there is not enough weight on the hitch. You need to distribute the weight evenly across the entire length of the truck and trailer, while keeping the trailer as level as possible. If anything, you want the tongue weight to be heavy rather than light !

more weight toward the back is off the front which is what causes the light steering feeling and all over because you don't have the weight on the steering wheels. just like having no bars all the weight on the back pushes up the front and gives you wet shorts
 
BeerMonkey

BeerMonkey

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shocks do most of the sway that you need, if they are set for off roading or comfortable ride, opposite of what you want for trailers wont have any resistance to loads .


when my bars are right for ride stability the back goes down an inch or so the front goes down 4-5, rides good there all the trips ive done forever, and directions and setup
We arent talking about the same things. Your truck shocks will control the sway of your truck yes, they however have very little if any effect on your trailer sway. apply your example to the little match box mustang on the treadmill video. i highly doubt it has any suspensions leaving it rigid and yet the trailer sway still happens. trailer sway is generated at the trailer and the hinge point to the tow vehicle. a lateral force is being applied and causing issues before the tow vehicle's suspension is ever brought into play.
 
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