P1000 Overheating

CumminsPusher

CumminsPusher

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The bleeder is in the thermostat housing on the engine. Haven’t have problems bleeding the Pioneer but our Wolverine was a b**** and had to use the bleeder otherwise it wouldn’t go. I’d suggest that for troublesome air pockets
 
Firemedic530

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I was riding with Delton when his overheated and we had another one overheat that night. Mine was fine and the next day I coin washed it just to get it clean enough to ride the following day. After the wash we drove around in high range turf mode looking at properties and it overheated. Same deal where the fan was intermittent and radiator appeared clean. The next morning I cleaned the radiator again and then propped it up at Jackals house and let it run with the radiator cap off. It hasn't overheated since. I'm thinking I want to put an override switch in my panel for the fan so I can control it if I see more than 2 bars.
In the machines defense, we tested them on the "water trail" and had mud/water to the top of the doors several times. So mud could have contributed.
 
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0860silverado

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I love mine a lot but it’s hard not to agree with the Delton statement. Miss the days of mechanical everything including hubs, it’s more dependable but people have gotten lazy and love the conveniences till there’s a problem.
Yeah I agree with Delton's statement too. I'm just pokin' at you guys lol! As far as mechanical parts go, my dream SXS would be one with a 6 speed manual trans and three pedals! (First gear being granny gear!)
 
popeye

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Yeah I agree with Delton's statement too. I'm just pokin' at you guys lol! As far as mechanical parts go, my dream SXS would be one with a 6 speed manual trans and three pedals! (First gear being granny gear!)

Sounds like a yxz se, that’s been regeared to their 70/30/15 ratio


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
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Delton

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I was riding with Delton when his overheated and we had another one overheat that night. Mine was fine and the next day I coin washed it just to get it clean enough to ride the following day. After the wash we drove around in high range turf mode looking at properties and it overheated. Same deal where the fan was intermittent and radiator appeared clean. The next morning I cleaned the radiator again and then propped it up at Jackals house and let it run with the radiator cap off. It hasn't overheated since. I'm thinking I want to put an override switch in my panel for the fan so I can control it if I see more than 2 bars.
In the machines defense, we tested them on the "water trail" and had mud/water to the top of the doors several times. So mud could have contributed.
Mine wasn't a burping issue. 2.5 years and that was first time cap has been off. I have insider info that newer models have ecu problems regarding fans. I still haven't torn mine down to diagnose. And I might not. May just go ahead with my "simple" fix and be done with it.
 
Delton

Delton

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I CANNOT BELIEVE THE WORDS THAT I AM READING ON MY COMPUTER SCREEN!!! I never thought I'd read a less than positive statement from you Delton!!! Say it ain't soooo!!
I am a Honda man for sure. Been one for well over 30 years. But i call it like I see it.

p.s. my street bike is a Kawi. After 2 back surgeries I need all day comfort and that Vulcan is most comfy bike I've ever slung a leg over .I did test every model of Shadow out there first lol.
 
Delton

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Soon as I can find it, I'll post pic of my tee connector with temp sensor. It's amazingly easy to build and guaranteed dependable. Takes the ecu out of the equation as far as fan goes.
 
Delton

Delton

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For the record, mine turned 5300 miles during that ride with only a wheel bearing as a failure. So I haven't had much to complain about. My original clutch was flawless creeping up those big rocks heading to sand mines. Screw that update (til 2020 anyhow) lol
 
Firemedic530

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I don't know that mine was a burping issue either. I had washed the radiator from the front on Monday and then the overheating happened after. The next morning I did more cleaning focusing on water flow both directions through the radiator without bending the fins. I did the burping procedure just to eliminate another possible cause.

Did your gauges or ecm acknowledge your fan being "hot wired "? I'm still thinking I will just add an additional switch in my console that positaps into the fan wire. I already ordered the switch off Amazon. I didn't like the way the fan operated when it was overheating. I'm also going to dielectric grease the connections tomorrow.
We drove around this evening for 45 minutes and no problems.
 
Delton

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I don't know that mine was a burping issue either. I had washed the radiator from the front on Monday and then the overheating happened after. The next morning I did more cleaning focusing on water flow both directions through the radiator without bending the fins. I did the burping procedure just to eliminate another possible cause.

Did your gauges or ecm acknowledge your fan being "hot wired "? I'm still thinking I will just add an additional switch in my console that positaps into the fan wire. I already ordered the switch off Amazon. I didn't like the way the fan operated when it was overheating. I'm also going to dielectric grease the connections tomorrow.
We drove around this evening for 45 minutes and no problems.
No the ecu never knew what was up.
 
DG Rider

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I guess thats the only thing i really have against the 1000. These mystery electrical issues that sometimes pop up. Such a nightmare when "those" rolled into the shop.
 
Kilo427

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Delton post up how you have the fan wired I would like to do that. Also my ride had some mysterious chronic overheating problems for a long time I burped it new sensor, new thermostat and it continued. In the end I cut a vent in hole in my bumper and that seemed to fix the issue. Keep in mind aftermarket bumpers can impede air flow. After that I haven't had a problem yet
 
Delton

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Delton post up how you have the fan wired I would like to do that. Also my ride had some mysterious chronic overheating problems for a long time I burped it new sensor, new thermostat and it continued. In the end I cut a vent in hole in my bumper and that seemed to fix the issue. Keep in mind aftermarket bumpers can impede air flow. After that I haven't had a problem yet
Man my wiring job was strictly a trail bandaid. I just ran hot wire from acc fuse panel to blue wire of fan. Fan runs whenever key is on
 
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Sabel

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Update: I spoke again to my dealer who said they did bleed the lines and test the radiator cap. They recommend using low range anytime you go under 20 mph for any distance.
So as a science experiment we loaded the Pioneer just as last week and headed for the same steep national forest road just as last week. Used low range 4-wheel drive all day and did not overheat. Last week used high range 2-wheel drive and overheated after about 10 minutes on the same national forest road. Also noticed that fan came on regularly today.
 
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Sabel

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Something is off, your cooling system doesn't care whether you're in low range or not. Perhaps an air bubble in your system worked its way out?
What I know is, in high range at low speed, the fan seldom comes on. In low range low speed, the fan's on constantly. I understand that in low range and engine works less hard but what's that got to do with the fan? In low range there's obviously a lot more shifting up and down that can't be doing the transition any good. But neither does overheating.
 
Delton

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What I know is, in high range at low speed, the fan seldom comes on. In low range low speed, the fan's on constantly. I understand that in low range and engine works less hard but what's that got to do with the fan? In low range there's obviously a lot more shifting up and down that can't be doing the transition any good. But neither does overheating.
It's possible the ecu is programmed to run fan constantly in low range. I've never paid attention to mine but it is possible. Like alot of cars will run cooling fan whenever AC is on, regardless of coolant temp. Just a thought.
 
Tramguage1

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I know some of you guys don't like new electronics. But in my industry we should all be happy we have moved forward with technology. I for one have to work on equipment from the 20's to the latest stuff. Not saying the old stuff isn't better, its just easier to diagnose problems sometimes. Like any other equipment you have to understand how it works and know how to use the tools to diagnose problems.
My machine has overheated twice in the 900 miles that I have had it. Once after a 40 + MPH ride for about 3 miles on pavement. It over heated after about 2 minutes of idling when we stopped.
The other time was in high range turf model riding around the pasture at speeds under 10 MPH.
@Delton you give me an idea, add a duel temp readout and put one probe on bottom hose and other on top hose. that way I could tell if the water temps are same in and out of radiator.
 
Delton

Delton

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I know some of you guys don't like new electronics. But in my industry we should all be happy we have moved forward with technology. I for one have to work on equipment from the 20's to the latest stuff. Not saying the old stuff isn't better, its just easier to diagnose problems sometimes. Like any other equipment you have to understand how it works and know how to use the tools to diagnose problems.
My machine has overheated twice in the 900 miles that I have had it. Once after a 40 + MPH ride for about 3 miles on pavement. It over heated after about 2 minutes of idling when we stopped.
The other time was in high range turf model riding around the pasture at speeds under 10 MPH.
@Delton you give me an idea, add a duel temp readout and put one probe on bottom hose and other on top hose. that way I could tell if the water temps are same in and out of radiator.
Mike I've got mixed feelings about new technology. I cut my teeth on carburetors and points distributors. Had a guy drive down from NY to have me tune a set of FCR carbs on his dragbike few years back. For the most part modern stuff is easier to diagnose. My problem is when manufacturer reinvents the wheel. Having the ecu control cooling fan is just total nonsense. Switched 12volts and a temp sensor switching the ground is all you need.
 

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