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Hope your right. The can am trail 1000 was very tempting however, I bought Honda because of their supposed reliability factor. We shall see.Think you did, you just don't see many maintenance questions here on the P5's
Hope your right. The can am trail 1000 was very tempting however, I bought Honda because of their supposed reliability factor. We shall see.Think you did, you just don't see many maintenance questions here on the P5's
P1 owners have issues with alot of things @Smitty335Your probably right, think the P1 owners are the ones that have issues with the spec's on torque.
DDDonkey had a great idea. He paint the subtranny drain bolt red. I would suggest the painting the oil reservoir and oil pain drain bolts another color also. That way you can't go wrong. And make sure like Like Smitty335 said don't forget the springs. Also to put less strain on the initial startup, I presoak the filters in the appropriate oil overnight before I put them in. It is a bit messy, but it is less strain on the engine on the first startup after the filter change. Just a crazy suggestion.Think some members here have snapped the filter cover bolts by going by the spec. O rings do the sealing so no need to tighten them hard, its a small bolt, I use a 1/4 inch ratchet for the filter bolts so you have a better feel for how tight you have the bolts, when you drain the oil in the engine, find the two 12mm headed drain plugs, one is for the oil pan and the other drains the rest. If you find a 14 mm headed drain plug, that's the sub transmission drain and has nothing to do with draining the engine oil, the only time you will use a 14 mm socket is to change the sub transmission oil. I use new crush washers at every oil change, I've been a pinch though and re used the washers. And watch it closely.. If this is your first oil change, both filters have little springs between the cover and filters to hold tension keeping the filters seated. First tool I grab out of my tool box is my extendable magnet for retrieving those little Besturds. Remember you only need 10 & 12 mm sockets for engine oil change. 14 mm NO!!!!!!!!!! WRONG HOLE!!!!!!!!!!
Just trying to get y'all tuned up, for when you start wearing big boy pants and get A P1! HA! You know that is BS! Right?Jesus! Smitty's got this thread giving us all kinds of information about a P1 in the 500 forum. We don't have all those sub trans, isolator and clutch problems over here. 99% of the problems on a P5 are generally due to operator error.
As for the OP, might be a good idea for someone that isn't used to wrenching on stuff and doesn't have a feel for it. Personally I would only use one for head bolts and the like.
Rather notJust trying to get y'all tuned up, for when you start wearing big boy wet panties and get A P1! HA! You know that is BS! Right?
@Smitty335 hangs around our forum, he would really like to be one of us... maybe someday he'll graduate to a mans machine, the P500!Jesus! Smitty's got this thread giving us all kinds of information about a P1 in the 500 forum. We don't have all those sub trans, isolator and clutch problems over here. 99% of the problems on a P5 are generally due to operator error.
As for the OP, might be a good idea for someone that isn't used to wrenching on stuff and doesn't have a feel for it. Personally I would only use one for head bolts and the like.
Someones messing around again, I said pants for the record! HA!Rather not
Buy the torque wrench. Put it in the toolbox for things other than an oil change. There are a few examples of proper torque breaking the filter cover bolts.I was going to go buy a 1/4 inch torque wrench for oil changes and differential changes and such. The manual states torque specs. Opinions on how many of you use them or even think that they are needed? Also are you supposed to replace the crush washers every time or can they
There are a few examples of proper torque breaking the filter cover bolts.
I've found the same from my old 450S to the 700 manual. Same part, higher torque.It's kind of funny, the shop manual for my old '04 Rancher has a lower torque for the same oil filter cover bolts.
Almost looks like some brainiac college boy looked in his engineering text book and saw the listed torque was lower than the book value.
Fact is the book value is for clean, new bolts.
A used bolt has oil on it from, well oil changes are messy.
With oil lubricating the bolt the friction is reduced and you need to lower the torque.
Almost like the old guys that used the lower torque number knew somthing.
I was going to go buy a 1/4 inch torque wrench for oil changes and differential changes and such. The manual states torque specs. Opinions on how many of you use them or even think that they are needed? Also are you supposed to replace the crush washers every time or can they
I agree, just snug up the oil filter housing bolts. The others are big enough, they shouldn’t break off, unless they are way over torqued.
Buy the torque wrench. Put it in the toolbox for things other than an oil change.