P500 Torque wrenches needed?

U

Ugly

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Think some members here have snapped the filter cover bolts by going by the spec. O rings do the sealing so no need to tighten them hard, its a small bolt, I use a 1/4 inch ratchet for the filter bolts so you have a better feel for how tight you have the bolts, when you drain the oil in the engine, find the two 12mm headed drain plugs, one is for the oil pan and the other drains the rest. If you find a 14 mm headed drain plug, that's the sub transmission drain and has nothing to do with draining the engine oil, the only time you will use a 14 mm socket is to change the sub transmission oil. I use new crush washers at every oil change, I've been a pinch though and re used the washers. And watch it closely.. If this is your first oil change, both filters have little springs between the cover and filters to hold tension keeping the filters seated. First tool I grab out of my tool box is my extendable magnet for retrieving those little Besturds. Remember you only need 10 & 12 mm sockets for engine oil change. 14 mm NO!!!!!!!!!! WRONG HOLE!!!!!!!!!!
DDDonkey had a great idea. He paint the subtranny drain bolt red. I would suggest the painting the oil reservoir and oil pain drain bolts another color also. That way you can't go wrong. And make sure like Like Smitty335 said don't forget the springs. Also to put less strain on the initial startup, I presoak the filters in the appropriate oil overnight before I put them in. It is a bit messy, but it is less strain on the engine on the first startup after the filter change. Just a crazy suggestion.
 
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trigger

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Jesus! Smitty's got this thread giving us all kinds of information about a P1 in the 500 forum. We don't have all those sub trans, isolator and clutch problems over here. 99% of the problems on a P5 are generally due to operator error.
As for the OP, might be a good idea for someone that isn't used to wrenching on stuff and doesn't have a feel for it. Personally I would only use one for head bolts and the like.
 
Smitty335

Smitty335

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Jesus! Smitty's got this thread giving us all kinds of information about a P1 in the 500 forum. We don't have all those sub trans, isolator and clutch problems over here. 99% of the problems on a P5 are generally due to operator error.
As for the OP, might be a good idea for someone that isn't used to wrenching on stuff and doesn't have a feel for it. Personally I would only use one for head bolts and the like.
Just trying to get y'all tuned up, for when you start wearing big boy pants and get A P1! HA! You know that is BS! Right?
 
70Bones

70Bones

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Jesus! Smitty's got this thread giving us all kinds of information about a P1 in the 500 forum. We don't have all those sub trans, isolator and clutch problems over here. 99% of the problems on a P5 are generally due to operator error.
As for the OP, might be a good idea for someone that isn't used to wrenching on stuff and doesn't have a feel for it. Personally I would only use one for head bolts and the like.
@Smitty335 hangs around our forum, he would really like to be one of us... maybe someday he'll graduate to a mans machine, the P500!
 
DG Rider

DG Rider

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I was going to go buy a 1/4 inch torque wrench for oil changes and differential changes and such. The manual states torque specs. Opinions on how many of you use them or even think that they are needed? Also are you supposed to replace the crush washers every time or can they
Buy the torque wrench. Put it in the toolbox for things other than an oil change. There are a few examples of proper torque breaking the filter cover bolts.
 
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lee

lee

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There are a few examples of proper torque breaking the filter cover bolts.

It's kind of funny, the shop manual for my old '04 Rancher has a lower torque for the same oil filter cover bolts.
Almost looks like some brainiac college boy looked in his engineering text book and saw the listed torque was lower than the book value.
Fact is the book value is for clean, new bolts.
A used bolt has oil on it from, well oil changes are messy.
With oil lubricating the bolt the friction is reduced and you need to lower the torque.
Almost like the old guys that used the lower torque number knew somthing.
 
DG Rider

DG Rider

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It's kind of funny, the shop manual for my old '04 Rancher has a lower torque for the same oil filter cover bolts.
Almost looks like some brainiac college boy looked in his engineering text book and saw the listed torque was lower than the book value.
Fact is the book value is for clean, new bolts.
A used bolt has oil on it from, well oil changes are messy.
With oil lubricating the bolt the friction is reduced and you need to lower the torque.
Almost like the old guys that used the lower torque number knew somthing.
I've found the same from my old 450S to the 700 manual. Same part, higher torque.
 
Neohio

Neohio

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Like @lee and @DG Rider said, be careful torque the filter housing bolts to spec.
I am not sure if the 500 suffers the same fate of the 1000, but if you torque the 1000 covers to spec, there is a good chance you will snap the bolt.
 
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Tstover

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I was going to go buy a 1/4 inch torque wrench for oil changes and differential changes and such. The manual states torque specs. Opinions on how many of you use them or even think that they are needed? Also are you supposed to replace the crush washers every time or can they

I used one on my first oil change and twisted one of the filter cover bolts off. Never again, snug them up and good to go.
 
Bastardchild

Bastardchild

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I was going to go buy a 1/4 inch torque wrench for oil changes and differential changes and such. The manual states torque specs. Opinions on how many of you use them or even think that they are needed? Also are you supposed to replace the crush washers every time or can they

2020 04 18 12 11 51 460
 
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Old_fart_with_2020_Talon

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Buy the torque wrench. Put it in the toolbox for things other than an oil change.

That is my way of thinking.

Good to read the instructions also, doubt if most folks know to back the torque setting to minimum before putting the wrench away.

Have gotten buy with re-using a crush washer a time or three, I try not to as a rule.
 
JiminAZ

JiminAZ

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I already own torque wrenches. I think they are particularly important when you are dealing with aluminum housings with threaded blind holes. It’s just too easy to give it that extra bit of oomph and yield/shear the threads.
Not at all familiar with the P500’s particulars but watch out for aluminum.
 
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ckeele223

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I wanted to answer the question about the need to have and use a torque wrench. I own 4 torque wrenches 1/4 for inch Lb., 3/8, and 1/2 drive to torque bolts with and an expensive 4th wrench just to " check the calibration " on the other wrenches occasionally, I owned one of the largest automotive machine shops in Utah for several years and rebuilt literally hundreds of engines, some of them very expensive, some were exotic engines for race applications worth tens of thousands of dollars, anyway the point I am trying to make is that there is a torque for every bolt or fastener, and if you don't torque them you are just guessing, I had several customers that continued to have problems with engines and I would help them figure out the issues, and when asked if they torque things down invariably they would say " no I can feel as good as a torque wrench ". Also when there is a low and a high value listed, the low number is with dry threads and the high number is for threads with lubrication of some sort, I always lube the threads with something even just engine oil, depending on the application, and use the higher number torque value. Good luck on your projects. Best regards.
 
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