G
WillyBill
Wheeling Addict
Lifetime Member
My Torq Locker install is done and all went according to plan. 75-140 Royal Purple oil went in the diff. I "adjusted" the cir-clip before the update came in my email due to seeing the forum post on"axle stubborn removal" and tested it on original side gears before installing the axles. Then I serviced the engine in "Sneaker" and the rest of the lube points while I was at it. Tested all machine functions to make sure everything was copacetic.
WB
WB
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H
The Torq Locker install doesn't look to difficult, and it became less difficult after I stopped by the local Honda dealership today and they told me they would install the Torq Locker, but it would be a 7 hour job at their shop rate of $85.00 per hour for a measly $595.00. Jman81 and jwb estimates it's a 4 hour job. I think I'll tackle the job myself, even if it takes me two days!!!! Can't wait to get on the list and get it coming.
WOW a 7 hour job at $85 bucks an hour well I guess they have to make money where they can.
My plan is to install mine Friday morning before the heat of the day(92F) rolls in then go for a nice long ride early Saturday morning before anyone else hits the trails.
When I first wrote the install manual, I had put in 4-5 hrs. It was edited to say 'about 4 hrs' The 7hrs would be the flat rate for the job, and it sounds about right. If you consider these points. First you walk in the door and talk to the guy behind the counter. He's getting paid to stand there and talk to you. If you drop the machine, another guy has to move the machine into the waiting area. That guy gets paid to be there all day- even if he doesn't bill one minute of time. Then the machine gets moved into the service bay. The mechanic does the work, takes the repair order to another person that gets paid to be there all day whether they do anything or not. Then someone has to generate an invoice from the repair order, and contact you. Then you come back in, chat for 15 minutes, look over the machine with someone, and hopefully it's all good, and you pay, and leave. Did they clean the machine? They had to clean up after the job and dispose of the oil, put tools away etc. Do you think that didn't eat up 2.5 hrs.? All automotive shops - all is a strong word- so let's say 98% of automotive shops generally use a 'flat rate' manual to quote jobs and pay the mechanics, and I assume that power-sports shops do the same thing. There's no such (useable) manual for the marine industry. The flat rate is generally the actual time, plus 30-40%. This isn't always the case, but not unusual. This allows shops to post an artificially low shop rate so people don't have a conniption over the posted rate, and still charge enough to stay in business. Using your example, the posted rate is $85/hr. The actual rate is $148.50 / hr. This is the reality of what it costs to keep the lights on and pay everyone in the shop a decent income, keeping in mind that if the shop also sells the machines, I can promise you that the sales side has to subsidize repair side. In a stand alone repair shop, that rate still wouldn't be high enough to pay everyone a decent living.
I would like a few of you to time the job. Time starts when you walk out to the machine with the intention of doing the install. So if you walk out to the machine at 8am. the time doesn't stop until after a brief 10 minute test ride, all the tools are put away, and the shop is all cleaned up, and oil disposed. That's the real install time.
Good write-up @JWB I should have timed my install job. Minus the beer runs to the fridgeWhen I first wrote the install manual, I had put in 4-5 hrs. It was edited to say 'about 4 hrs' The 7hrs would be the flat rate for the job, and it sounds about right. If you consider these points. First you walk in the door and talk to the guy behind the counter. He's getting paid to stand there and talk to you. If you drop the machine, another guy has to move the machine into the waiting area. That guy gets paid to be there all day- even if he doesn't bill one minute of time. Then the machine gets moved into the service bay. The mechanic does the work, takes the repair order to another person that gets paid to be there all day whether they do anything or not. Then someone has to generate an invoice from the repair order, and contact you. Then you come back in, chat for 15 minutes, look over the machine with someone, and hopefully it's all good, and you pay, and leave. Did they clean the machine? They had to clean up after the job and dispose of the oil, put tools away etc. Do you think that didn't eat up 2.5 hrs.? All automotive shops - all is a strong word- so let's say 98% of automotive shops generally use a 'flat rate' manual to quote jobs and pay the mechanics, and I assume that power-sports shops do the same thing. There's no such (useable) manual for the marine industry. The flat rate is generally the actual time, plus 30-40%. This isn't always the case, but not unusual. This allows shops to post an artificially low shop rate so people don't have a conniption over the posted rate, and still charge enough to stay in business. Using your example, the posted rate is $85/hr. The actual rate is $148.50 / hr. This is the reality of what it costs to keep the lights on and pay everyone in the shop a decent income, keeping in mind that if the shop also sells the machines, I can promise you that the sales side has to subsidize repair side. In a stand alone repair shop, that rate still wouldn't be high enough to pay everyone a decent living.
I would like a few of you to time the job. Time starts when you walk out to the machine with the intention of doing the install. So if you walk out to the machine at 8am. the time doesn't stop until after a brief 10 minute test ride, all the tools are put away, and the shop is all cleaned up, and oil disposed. That's the real install time.
So maybe I'll hold off power washing mine until Friday morning, get up have my coffee and donuts then take a look at the days work load and the clock...hmmm....lets see Mr. Collins wants a torq locker installed in his 2017 P500....came in dirty-needs cleaning and oh hehe LOL it says here that he wants his front propeller shaft painted because its a little rusty (what a tool - lol).
C
Chooglin
Guest
Anybody who thinks they can do the tear down and install in 4-5 hours is full of poop. You will have 2 hours just looking for the 14 mm wrench that you left in the refrigerator when you went to go fetch a beer and another 2 hours trying to get the retaining pin out of the cross pin........lmao
NTCPrezJB
President of #NTC
Lifetime Member
Supporting Member
Anybody who thinks they can do the tear down and install in 4-5 hours is full of poop. You will have 2 hours just looking for tools and another 2 hours trying to get the retaining pin out of the cross pin........lmao
Hey have you been snooping around my garage windows?
My wife hates my organization system of "where did I use that last".
LFAO because it took me 10 months just to change out the valve stem seals and an o-ring on the oil pickup tube in my AWD van with a 5.3l.Well I couldn't get it into my heated garage last winter and I have other vehicles to drive so it wasn't a big deal but as I lay under it recently I kept thinking "should have just taken it in" LOL.Anybody who thinks they can do the tear down and install in 4-5 hours is full of poop. You will have 2 hours just looking for tools and another 2 hours trying to get the retaining pin out of the cross pin........lmao
Not getting dirty, not wasting time, not messing it up worse is a few more things you pay for at a shop as well as having it done in a timely manner.
Oh I always feel people have a right to earn a living, just do the work correctly and get paid a fair amount and all is good.
I didn't know I was on Hidden Camera!Anybody who thinks they can do the tear down and install in 4-5 hours is full of poop. You will have 2 hours just looking for the 14 mm wrench that you left in the refrigerator when you went to go fetch a beer and another 2 hours trying to get the retaining pin out of the cross pin........lmao
906UP
Well-Known Member
Lifetime Member
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Club Contributor
Awesome post @JWB !!!!When I first wrote the install manual, I had put in 4-5 hrs. It was edited to say 'about 4 hrs' The 7hrs would be the flat rate for the job, and it sounds about..............
Thanks! I totally wasn't expecting the responses! You guys crack me up! Sittin here LMAO
906UP
Well-Known Member
Lifetime Member
Supporting Member
Club Contributor
I worked in a couple auto dealerships as a tech when I got out of the Air Force......I get it!Thanks! I totally wasn't expecting the responses! You guys crack me up! Sittin here LMAO
H
Good explanation, I get it. But, still think I'll do it myself though, but thanks for clearing things up..When I first wrote the install manual, I had put in 4-5 hrs. It was edited to say 'about 4 hrs' The 7hrs would be the flat rate for the job, and it sounds about right. If you consider these points. First you walk in the door and talk to the guy behind the counter. He's getting paid to stand there and talk to you. If you drop the machine, another guy has to move the machine into the waiting area. That guy gets paid to be there all day- even if he doesn't bill one minute of time. Then the machine gets moved into the service bay. The mechanic does the work, takes the repair order to another person that gets paid to be there all day whether they do anything or not. Then someone has to generate an invoice from the repair order, and contact you. Then you come back in, chat for 15 minutes, look over the machine with someone, and hopefully it's all good, and you pay, and leave. Did they clean the machine? They had to clean up after the job and dispose of the oil, put tools away etc. Do you think that didn't eat up 2.5 hrs.? All automotive shops - all is a strong word- so let's say 98% of automotive shops generally use a 'flat rate' manual to quote jobs and pay the mechanics, and I assume that power-sports shops do the same thing. There's no such (useable) manual for the marine industry. The flat rate is generally the actual time, plus 30-40%. This isn't always the case, but not unusual. This allows shops to post an artificially low shop rate so people don't have a conniption over the posted rate, and still charge enough to stay in business. Using your example, the posted rate is $85/hr. The actual rate is $148.50 / hr. This is the reality of what it costs to keep the lights on and pay everyone in the shop a decent income, keeping in mind that if the shop also sells the machines, I can promise you that the sales side has to subsidize repair side. In a stand alone repair shop, that rate still wouldn't be high enough to pay everyone a decent living.
I would like a few of you to time the job. Time starts when you walk out to the machine with the intention of doing the install. So if you walk out to the machine at 8am. the time doesn't stop until after a brief 10 minute test ride, all the tools are put away, and the shop is all cleaned up, and oil disposed. That's the real install time.
You bet! You won't have any problem doing it yourself! And it makes it that much more satisfying knowing you did it!
This is kinda.. well totally off topic, but I'll try to make it look like it's on topic...- While I was testing my Torq-Locker() I wiped out my front brake pads, I guess doing all the mud riding- something I almost never did pre-locker. I know I saw a thread about brake pads for differing conditions, but I can't find it now. Do any of you have a recommendation here- there's all different types of materials for brake pads, and I don't think a set should wear out in about 200 miles of riding, particularly when you rarely have to use them on the P500 with the engine braking being so good, vs a cvt machine that has nothing but brakes...
) I wiped out my front brake pads, I guess doing all the mud riding- something I almost never did pre-locker. I know I saw a thread about brake pads for differing conditions, but I can't find it now. Do any of you have a recommendation here- there's all different types of materials for brake pads, and I don't think a set should wear out in about 200 miles of riding, particularly when you rarely have to use them on the P500 with the engine braking being so good, vs a cvt machine that has nothing but brakes...
Mudder
NTC Ambassador of Walls
Lifetime Member
P500 - Brass brake pads
P500 - New brake pad brands,
P500 - BRAKE PADS - Read This Before Buying!!!
more on search, uncheck This Forum Only
P500 - New brake pad brands,
P500 - BRAKE PADS - Read This Before Buying!!!
more on search, uncheck This Forum Only
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Yeah that’s cool. Too much for this old boy. But if I could convince my mechanic brother. That should come standard on the 500. Thanks.
Caper
C
Chooglin
Guest
This is where I bought mine and they are holding up much better than the stock padsThis is kinda.. well totally off topic, but I'll try to make it look like it's on topic...- While I was testing my Torq-Locker(
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